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SPECIFICATIONS for 3.0/2.3CL
Engine Type
3.0-liter, 24-valve SOHC w/VTEC V-6 (3.0CL)
2.3-liter, 16-valve SOHC w/VTEC inline 4-cylinder (2.3CL)

Horsepower, SAE net
200 hp @ 5000 rpm (3.0CL)
150 hp @ 5700 rpm (2.3CL)

Torque, SAE net
195 lbs-ft @ 4800 rpm (3.0CL)
152 lbs-ft @ 4800 rpm (2.3CL)

Redline
6300 rpm

Fuel Cutoff
6600 rpm (3.0CL)
6500 rpm (2.3CL)

Bore & Stroke
3.39 in x 3.39 in
(86.0 mm x 86.0 mm) (3.0CL)

3.39 in x 3.82 in
(86.0 mm x 97.0 mm) (2.3CL)

Displacement
182.9 cu in (2997 cc) (3.0CL)
137.5 cu in (2254 cc) (2.3CL)

Compression Ratio
9.4:1 (3.0CL) 9.3:1 (2.3CL)

Induction System
Multi-point Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI)

Valvetrain
SOHC 24-valve w/Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control (VTEC) system (3.0CL)
SOHC 16-valve w/Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control (VTEC) system (2.3CL)

Engine Block
Aluminum alloy

Cylinder Head
Aluminum alloy with 4 valves per cylinder and VTEC

Emission Control
3-way catalyst

Ignition System
Full Electronic ignition

Alternator
12V, 100A (3.0CL)
12V, 80A (2.3CL)

Battery
12V, 72A (3.0CL)
12V, 52A (2.3CL)

Recommended Fuel
Unleaded regular

Body Type
Unit body

Front Suspension
Independent double-wishbone

Rear Suspension
Independent double-wishbone

Shock Absorbers
NWS-type (New Wide Setting)

Stabilizer Bars
(3.0CL) Front Diameter 25 mm (0.98 in) (solid)
Rear Diameter 16 mm (0.63 in) (solid)

(2.3CL) Front Diameter 27.2 mm (1.07 in) (hollow)
Rear Diameter 16 mm (0.63 in) (solid)

Steering Type
Rotary-valve, variable-assist, power rack-and-pinion

Steering Ratio
17.4:1

Steering Wheel Turns, lock-to-lock
3.0

Turning Diameter
39.04 ft (11.9 m)

Wheels
6 JJ x 16 7-spoke (3.0CL)
6 JJ x 16 5-spoke (2.3CL)

Tires
P205/55 R16 Michelin MXV4

Braking System
Front Discs
(3.0CL) Ventilated, 11.1 in (282 mm) diameter, 1.0 in (25 mm) rotor thickness
(2.3CL) Ventilated, 10.2 in (260 mm) diameter, 0.9 in (23 mm) rotor thickness

Rear Discs
(3.0CL) Solid, 10.2 in (260 mm) diameter, 0.39 in (10 mm) rotor thickness
(2.3CL) Solid, 10.2 in (260 mm) diameter, 0.4 in (10 mm) rotor thickness

Total Swept Area
(3.0CL)370.1 sq in (2389 cm2)
(2.3CL)363.9 sq in (2267 cm2)

Parking Brake
Separate parking caliper

Anti-lock Braking System (ABS)
Acura-designed system with four wheel-speed sensors and electronic/hydraulic control unit

POWERTRAIN
Type
Transverse front engine/front-wheel drive

Transmission
Ratios (:1)

3.0CL 4-speed automatic
1st 2nd 3rd 4th Reverse Final
2.534 1.502 0.947 0.608 1.846 4.200

2.3CL 5-speed manual
1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Reverse Final
3.285 1.807 1.193 0.903 0.685 3.000 4.062

2.3CL 4-speed automatic
1st 2nd 3rd 4th Reverse Final
2.528 1.427 0.981 0.620 1.863 4.466

CAPACITIES
Crankcase
4.6 U.S. quarts (4.4 liters) refill capacity, including filter (3.0CL)
4.5 U.S. quarts (4.3 liters) refill capacity, including filter (2.3CL)

b]Cooling System[/b]
9.3 U.S. quarts (8.8 liters)(3.0CL)
7.3 U.S. quarts (6.9 l liters)(2.3CL w/ 5-speed manual)
7.2 U.S. quarts (6.8 liters) (2.3CL w/ 4-speed automatic)

Fuel Tank
17.2 U.S. gallons (65 liters)

Passenger Volume
84.7 cu ft

Cargo Volume (trunk)
12.0 cu ft

Total Volume
96.7 cu ft

FUEL ECONOMY
Factory Estimated Fuel Mileage, City/Highway
3.0CL 20 / 28
2.3CL 25 / 31 (manual) 23 / 29 (automatic)

EXTERIOR DIMENSIONS
b]Wheelbase [/b] 106.9 in (2715 mm)
Track, front 59.6 in (1515mm)
Track, rear 59.1 in (1500 mm)
Overall length 190.0 in (4827 mm)
Overall width 70.1 in (1780 mm)
Height* 54.7 in (1390 mm)
* measured at the Manufacturers Design Load Weight
Minimum Ground Clearance* 4.33 in (110 mm)
* measured at the Manufacturers Design Load Weight
Curb Weight
3.0CL automatic 3215 lbs(1464 kg)
2.3CLmanual 3062 lbs(1390 kg)
2.3CLautomatic 3004 lbs(1365 kg)

Weight Distribution (% F/R)
3.0CL 64/36
2.3CL 63/37

INTERIOR DIMENSIONS
Front
Head Room 37.4 in (951 mm)
Leg Room 42.9 in (1090 mm)
Hip Room 51.6 in (1310 mm)
Shoulder Room 54.4 in (1383 mm)

Rear
Head Room 35.9 in (913 mm)
Leg Room 31.0 in (788 mm)
Hip Room 47.6 in (1210 mm)
Shoulder Room 53.1 in (1349 mm)

WARRANTIES
Vehicle
4-year/50,000-mile limited warranty
Outer Body Rust-Through
5-year/unlimited-mile limited warranty

Roadside Assistance (TLC)
4-year/50,000-miles


Intake
3.0 CAI or SRI are from a 98-2002 3.0 Accord
2.3/2.2 CAI or SRI are from a 94-97 2.2 Accord
some popular brands are AEM, Injen. A short ram will generally give you more low end power, less high end, while a CAI will do just the opposite. The AEM V2 claims to have the best of both worlds, but are really nothing special. If buying an ebay intake, we recommend you get a k&n cone filter for sound quality and filter durability.

Here's the difference between CAI and SRI's.

Cold Air Intake (CAI)
PROS: Since its farther away from the engine it get colder air wich carries more oxygen thus creating bigger explosions in the engine thus giving more horse power.
CONS: Since its a longer pipe it takes longer for the air to get to the engine (less throttle response), since its closer to the ground there is a risk of getting water into the engine causing it to stop.
Neutral: Poorly designed CAIs can gain little, no, or even lose power.

**The cold air intake may have risks but they can be avoided by intaling a bypass valve which is designed to take in large volumes of air with a sudden thrust of the gas pedal and will safely level off and switch to your primary air filter as you coast on the highway. **

Short Ram Intake (SRI)
PROS: Smaller pipe so air response is faster, almost no chance of water getting into engine.
CONS: Since it is closer to the engine it heats up when the car is at a stop and delivers hot air with less oxygen molecules causing the HP to go down.
Neutral: Louder, deeper sound- pro to some, con to others

** Temperature difference is gone when the car is in motion, there is enough air flow to forceably scavange hot air out of the engine bay to be replaced by colder air. **
**However, SRIs with a well designed heat shield can lessen the issue of hot air.**

Note: At any rate, a "good" CAI vs a "good" SRI are practically equivalent when at speed.

Bottom Line:/Any intake is better than a stock intake because the internals of the after market intake is smoother and tested to perform better than stock. stock intake air boxes allow LESS air than moded intakes. MORE air = MORE power!

Exhaust
Cat Back exhaust systems are from a 94-97 Accord 2 Door.
Axel backs are also an option, 94-97 Accord.
Another option is to buy a separate muffler and have a shop do all new piping for you. I'd reccomend a resonator (18" or 22") to help cut back on that "ricey" tone, also make sure if having piping run that the exhaust shop can bend Mandrel bent tubing for better performance and less restriction.

Rims
Lug size is 4x114.3
Rim Offsets:
195/50/16 - 23.7" diameter (35-45mm offset required)
205/45/16 - 23.3" diameter (35-45mm offset required)
205/50/16 - 24.1" diameter (35-45mm offset required)
215/45/16 - 23.6" diameter (38-45mm offset required)
225/40/16 - 23.1" diameter (42-45mm offset required)
225/45/16 - 24" diameter (42-45mm offset required)

205/40/17 - 23.5" diameter (35-45mm offset required)
205/45/17 - 24.3" diameter (38-45mm offset required)
205/50/17 - 25.1" diameter (38-45mm offset required)
215/40/17 - 23.8" diameter (38-45mm offset required)
215/45/17 - 24.6" diameter (40-45mm offset required)
225/40/17 - 24.1" diameter (42-45mm offset required)
225/45/17 - 25" diameter (42-45mm offset required)

215/35/18 - 23.9" diameter (38-45mm offset required)
215/40/18 - 24.8" diameter (40-45mm offset required)
225/35/18 - 24.2" diameter (42-45mm offset required)
225/40/18 - 25.1" diameter (42-45mm offset required)

215/35/19 - 24.9" diameter (42-45mm offset required)
225/35/19 - 25.2" diameter (42-45mm offset required)


Brakes
Rotors are from 94-97 accord.
Dual piston calipers can be fit into car. Parts needed are Calipers from a Legend. Rotors are from a prelude. For the Legend Calipers, Type II equipped including the GS sedan or LS coupe, 93-95. are the only kind with dual piston so you will need to locate these types. 2.2/2.3 needs the caliper brackets from 3.0CL, Legend, or 94-96 vtec prelude. Adding this will give you larger rotors and dual piston calipers for greater stopping power.

NOTE: the 97 front rotors are a hub-over-rotor design which means that you'll need to get them pressed on and off with a machine. Most places charge $200+ for this kind of job. Just FYI.


Misc Engine Parts.
All 2.2/2.3 engine parts come from a 94-97 Accord (F22) or a 98-2002 Accord (F23).
All 3.0 engine parts come from a 98-2002 Accord V6 (J30A1).
Acura 3.2 CL-S/ TL-S cams can be put into a J30 block.

interchangeable parts
92-01 H22 rod - > F22a/b rod (will push stock F piston out of the hole)
92-96 H23 rod ->Part of engine:
Hpart -> [is interchangeable with] Fpart (notes)

Block:
98-01 H22 crank -> F23ax crank (will destroke 7mm, use H rods?)
92-97 H22 crank -> F22a/b crank (will destroke 4.5mm)
92-96 H23 crank -> F22a/b crank (same part)
92-01 H22 rod - > F22a/b rod (will push stock F piston out of the hole)
92-96 H23 rod -> F22a/b rod (same part) F22a/b rod (sam

Transmission:
All transmissions, clutches, pressure plates, and flywheels are interchangeable.
Gears swapping can be done using the gear sets. LSDs are not swappable as the belt housings are different.

NOTE: THE BEST TRANSMISSION FOR YOU F22 and F23s is THE M2S4 or M2B4 ( contains LSD ) H22 transmissions are geared a shy to short for our engine. These have been known to shave .7 off the quarter mile respectively.

What's this I hear about the 1st gen auto trannies being crap?
a. Differential bearing failure- usually indicated by the axle seals leaking
b. 2nd gear clutch pack failure- usually indicated by lack of second gear, excessive slipping in other gears, car redlines before shifting, delayed shifting (car hold current gear way longer than it should.
c. It is also highly recommended that you put a transmission cooler on your car to prolong the life of the trans and at a minimum change the fluid every year or 30K.

Window Regulators
94-97 Accord coupe window regulators will work on all CL's, but you lose the auto down function(on drivers side).

Light bulb sizes
1997-1999 ACURA CL
Low beam headlamp | 9006
High beam headlamp | 9005
Front corners | 168/194
Rear corners| 168/194
Front turn signal | 7440
Rear turn signal | 1157
Tail light |1157
High mount stop light | 7440
License plate | 168
Back up light | 1156
Glove box | 3021
Map light |168/194 | 3021 (97’s)
Dome light | DE3910
Door light | DE3021
Trunk/Cargo area | 3021

How do I pull my engine codes if I do not have a scanner tool?
Do one of the following:
a. Go to Autozone and have them read your codes (it's free)
or
b. See the instructions below

WARNING!!!: USE AT YOUR OWN RISK AS SHORTING THE WRONG PINS WILL RESULT IN DAMAGED ECU.

a. Find the Data Link Connector (DLC) located under the instrument panel in the driver's side. It is bolted to the kick panel and is gray in color on the 1998 models.
b. Jump terminals 8 and 13 by connecting them with a wire/cable.
...............________
...._____|________|_____
.../|1...2...3...4...5...6...7...8|\
../.|==============...|.\
./..|9.10.11.12.13.14.15.16.|...\
/----------------------------------- \
DATA LINK CONNECTOR (DLC)
c. Turn the ignition key to ON and observe the "CHECK ENGINE" light. It will flash the trouble codes. For example: 2
long flashes, pause and then 3 short flashes = 23 = P0325 = Knock sensor circuit fault (4 cyl only).
One short flash = 1. One long flash = 10. If there are no trouble codes, the light will not flash.
Flashes.....Code(s)............................... ..........Description
1...............P0131,P0132....................... .........Primary heated O2 sensor circuit low/high voltage
3...............P0107,P0108....................... .........Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor circuit low/high voltage
4.............. P0335,P0336.................................Cranks haft position sensor
5.............. P1128,P1129.................................Map sensor circuit low/high voltage
6...............P0117,P0118....................... .........Electronic Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit low/high input
7...............P0122,P0123,P1121,P1122........... Throttle position sensor (TPS) circuit low/high input
8...............P1359,P1361,P1362................. ....CKP/TDC sensor 1
9...............P1381,P1382....................... .........CYP Sensor
10.............P0112,P0113........................ ........Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit low/high input
12.............P1491,P1498........................ ........EGR valve
13.............P1106,P1107,P1108.................. ...Barometric pressure sensor
14.............P0505,P1519........................ .........IAC valve
17.............P0500.............................. ..............VSS fault
20.............P1297,P1298........................ .........Electric Load Detector (ELD)
21.............P1253.............................. ..............VTEC
22.............P1257,P1258,P1259.................. ....VTEC
23.............P0325.............................. ..............Knock sensor
41.............P0135,P1166,P1167.................. ....Primary heated O2 sensor
45.............P0171,P0172........................ .........System adaptive fuel too lean/rich
48.............P1162.............................. ..............Primary heated O2 sensor
58.............P1366,P1367........................ .........TDC sensor 2
61.............P0133,P1149,P1163,64,65............ Primary heated O2 sensor
63.............P0137,38,39........................ ...........Secondary heated O2 sensor
65.............P0141.............................. ...............Secondary heated O2 sensor
67.............P0420.............................. ...............Catalyst system efficiency below threshold
70.............P0715,20,25,30,40,53,58,63......... .Automatic transaxle malfunction
71.............P0300,P0301........................ ..........Random/Cylinder 1 misfire
72.............P0302.............................. ...............Cylinder 2 misfire
73.............P0303.............................. ...............Cylinder 3 misfire
74.............P0304.............................. ...............Cylinder 4 misfire
75.............P0305.............................. ...............Cylinder 5 misfire
76.............P0306.............................. ...............Cylinder 6 misfire
80.............P0401.............................. ...............EGR insufficient flow
86.............P0116.............................. ...............Electronic Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor range/performance
90.............P1456,P1457........................ ..........EVAP control system leak
91.............P0452,P0453........................ ..........EVAP fuel tank pressure sensor low/high input

The following codes will not flash since they require a code scanner:
P1607-PCM internal circuit failure
P1705,06,38,39,53,68,73,91-Automatic transaxle failure

HOW TO CLEAR TROUBLE CODES (after you fix the problem)
a. Remove ignition key
b. Locate fuse panel on passenger's side
c. Remove fuse no. 13 10 seconds, and then place it back in.

This post was last modified: 06-24-2008 04:59 PM by ADVANCE.

OTHER IMPORTANT INFORMATION

CELs and LIMP MODE
Any number of things can throw you into limp mode and you definately won't have vtec. Most likely if you have a CEL fix that first then worry about VTEC. CEL can be a great indicator as to whats going on, and that light is lit for a reason. even when people say, "I have a CEL but thats a different issue" ,fix that FIRST, then worry about vtec. many codes that are set have alot to do with why vtec isn't working. If your car is not acting right take apart the dash and check that your CEL light is not burnt out. it should light up when you first turn the key on.

*VSS/ SPEEDO
If your car loses its speed reference vtec will not engauge. the ecu will see it just as if you were sitting still reving the engine, no vtec

*OIL
If you don't have the correct oil presure no vtec:
possible causes; dented or damaged oil pan , not enough oil, or oil is so old and crappy it is thin as water

*VTEC OIL PRESURE switch
The VTEC oil presure switch is what feeds back information the the computer to tell it wether or not the opening of the solinoid has alowed high presure oil into the vtec oil gallerys. Once the solinoid opens oil shoud presurize the vtec oil ways pushing the locker pins into place while the oil presure sensor right next to the vtec solinoid feeds back info to the ecu.

*TEMP
The cars coolant temp needs to be at a certian temp for vtec to engage, if any of your temperature sensors are screwed up that is another possibility to look into

*VTEC SOLINOID Gasket/Screen
A cloged or dirty screen that is part of the vtec soliniod gasket causes vtec to not engage or be intermintent.

*THROTTLE POSITION
If your throwing a code for the TPS being bad or wacky this can also cause intermitant or no engagement, from my expermiments, whether vtec engauges or not is throttle position dependent.


Testing the mechanics of VTEC

*You want to check are that you have the appropriate oil presure at head when approching the rpm vtec engauges. I have seen motors where their just wasn't enough oil press and it doesn't throw any CEL but vtec just doesn't work and you hit the 6500 rev limit. The way to check is take the 10mm bolt out of the head that is on the front left if you are facing the motor. This bolt gives you access to the oil way of vtec, this is the same bolt that you remove to do the air presure test listed below. But anway you need to get a gauge that screws into the oil port. Now from here you have two choices. once you have the gauge installed you can either raise the car up and run the car in gear in order to simulate the speed so the vtec solinoid will open and then measure the presure OR you can disconnect the 1 pin connector from the vtec solinoid and aply batery voltage tot he solinoid in order to open it so oil can/should flow into the vtec oil gallerys. The test has to have the motor reving at least up to if not beyond 5000rpm in order to get an accurate oil reading. now what ever way you shose to get the solinoid to open with the car runing is up to you but at 5000rpm you should read a minimum of 60 psi of press at that port. if you do end up having enough oil press i would investigate a bad vtec oil presure sensor. Also not having enough oil presure can also account for "Late" engaugement, where you reach the apropriate press after the preset engaugement point and then the ecu alows vtec to engauge because the required oil presure has been met.

*Secondly you want to make sure that your solinoid is opperational, take it off and using a 12 volt source and a ground make sure that the solinoid operates quickly and smoothly when 12v is applied. this is the valve and if it isn't working vtec won't either

*Third if all else fails you can check that vtec mechanics work by using air presure(this test should then be followed up by the oil presure test) Take off the valve cover, take the plug out of the front of the head next to the header, either find a fitting that you can adapt your air hose to screw in the head or get a blow gun with a rubber tip. with another person you have to block the bleed hole on the 5th cam cap and while applying 40-60 spi of air presure , slowly crank over the motor using the main crank pully and watch to see that all 3 rockers lock togther and start to follow the middle lob, the VTEC lob. you may even hear a tiny click as the pins in the rockers lock the 3 togther. also you will be able to tell that the vtec lobe is being followed as the lift or how far the valves are pushed down is much greater. with the appropriate air presure and if everything is workign corectly every valve should be following the vtec lob. make sure that you have a good air compresor that can keep up with keeping a presure of 40-60 psi. if you don't have luck try raising the presure a littlbe bit, but i wouldn't go much hiogher than 80 psi.

once you have verified that all the maechanics are working : vtec solinoid, oil press, and valve assembly then you can move from there and see where the problem lies in wiring.

Other Info

things i haven't seen but are possible are, a faulty vtec solnoid, vtec oil presure sensor, and if your ecu is not detecting the RPM signal.

more vtec presure switch info: the vtec presure switch is just that , a switch , its on or off depending on the oil presure. the ecu sends out about a 10v signal from 1 pin and runs it thru the presure switch back tot he ecu. if the presure is to low the switch stays closed and the ecu "sees" this by the 10v returning, after the vtec solinoid opens the ecu is expecting to see that the switch is opend by the oil presure and for its 10v feed back to disapear.


THE JUMPER WIRE THEORY:if you just jumper the wire your simulating a switch that never opens, on the flip side however if you just disconnect it i think the ecu is smart enough to know that before the engaugement point it wasn't "seeing" its 10v feedback so it throws a vtec malfunction. doing some testing you can get a multimeater: remove the 2p connector from the vtec presure switch , measure voltage with the ignition on between the two pins on the plug you should measure about 10v, this will indicate the wires to the ecu for the vtec presure switch are good, then turn the key off and measure for continuity between the two terminals on the vtec presure switch. seeing as this is a switch its natural state is closed you should measure close to no resistance thru the switch. now this info just means the switch is good if you read continuity thru it but that doesn't mean that the switch is opening when it is supposed to. i would investigate the presure switch further if the oil presure tests are done and found that the correct oil presure is indeed there.

also where you car is hitting its rev limiter can give away even more information, if you can only rev to 6500 and then hit a fuel cut then your not in limp mode but one of the requirements for vtec to engauge has not been met.. such as temp, oil press speed, etc..

IAB solenoid activates on a P13 (91-96) at 4600, and 4900 on a P5M (97-01)
VTEC solenoid activates on a P13 (91-96) at 4900, and 5200 on a P5M (97-01)

but if you car is only reving to (i think limp mode if 5000 rpm) then you have something seriously prohibiting the car, and most likely almost definatly your CEL should be on, and like i said fix and present codes befor eyou worry about VTEC.

and NO vtec does not engauge if you sitting still in your car and reving it, the secondary runners will open up, but the vtec soliniod will not open.

which brings me to another point, part of what makes vtec work well is the fact that right before the secondary cam profiles engauge the secondary runners in the intake manafold open up to accomadate the engines greater demand for air flow when in VTEC. some times there maybe something wrong with the wiring that tells the IAB soliniod to remove vacume from the diaphram that holds them closed. If anything is wrong with the IAB system then that can cause vtec to feel like it is not engauging. The Iabs are rpm dependant only, and the do open if you reving the car in neutal. THe Iabs are held closed when the car is idling by vacume and continue to be held closed by vacume stored in the small canaster under the intake manifold so you will have vacume to the required rpm even at WOT. With key off and no vacume the IABs open due to a spring. so once vacume is removed they just go to their rest state which is open.