Hey, here's my projected build:

Shell is a 94 Integra LS

****Engine will be TBA as of right now.

****Eagle crankshaft - newest addition. Decided that finding a used crank in good condition would be harder than buying a good, new, high quality one instead.
Darton sleeves bored to 84mm by ENDYN
ARP main bolts
ACL bottom end bearing kit (Thrust, main, rod, and front main & rear main seals)
OE Honda B18C1 oil pan and gasket
ENDYN Lower block girdle
Eagle stock length rods (they come with ARP rod bolts)
ENDYN Rollerwave pistons, pins, and rings, 84mm
ENDYN Bseries VTEC head, assembled includes:
-OE Honda LMAs with larger pads and longer stroke
-Bumpstix (ENDYN's cams that are awesome, I don't have the specs on hand right now)
-ENDYN dual valve springs rated to 9500rpm
-ENDYN Titanium retainers and keepers
-OE Honda valve guides machined to a near perfect fit
-OE Honda valve seals
-ENDYN 33.5mm/28.5mm lightweight and flatfaced valves
-GSR style quench pads
Golden Eagle VTEC conversion parts
-oil passage plug
-oil sandwich plate
-22" braided SS oil tube to VTEC solenoid
OE Honda Spool Valve Assembly (VTEC solenoid)
ARP head studs
OE Honda valve cover and plug wire cover (B18C5)
Fluidyne 1/2width dualcore radiator
Slimline fan (3000+cfm)
OE Honda coolant lines
OE Honda coolant
Hytech (or replica) big tube header with 2.5" collector
OE Honda exhaust gasket
2.5" aluminum tubing, custom mandrel bent exhaust
2.5" custom test pipe
2.5" high flow cat for inspection purposes only
2.5"x22" magnaflow resonator
2.5" inlet Undecided on muffler
Hayward Performance ITBs for ITR/B16
ITB socks
Hondata B18C heatsheild gasket just to lengthen the runners by that extra 2.5mm
RC 440cc/min saturated injectors
Hondata s300 with VTEC engagement set at 4.7k RPM and redline at 9000rpm
Mobile 1 0w-30 synthetic engine oil
Mobile 1 oil filter
Summit oil filter relocation and oil cooler
OE GSR Water and Oil Pumps and T-belt.
A/C and PS delete via Unorthodox racing crankshaft and alternator pulleys.

All this will be transfered to the ground by:

OE Honda USDM Integra GSR tranny
Quaife ATB
OE Honda tranny fluid with LSD additive
Driveshaft Shop stage 2.9 axles
Rota Slipstreams in flat black 15x7 +42mm offset (track and street)
Falken 512s 215/50/15

I could go on with suspension, safety, tuning, etc, but I don't want to bore anyone.

****Bought a used GSR oil pan with no scrapes or anything. I'll probably wind up adding a few baffles to keep more oil in the sump.
****Found a guy with a B18B1 who might trade me my A1, if not, he only wants $40 for the block and main caps.

This post was last modified: 11-03-2008 05:42 PM by ThatOneDude.

Why not just drop in a J series and get that much power?

i'm sure you could get there

j series????????

the j series engines:

J25a SOHC VTEC 1999 acura TL
J30a1 SOHC VTEC 1997-1999 Acura 3.0CL , 1998-2002 Honda Accord V6 ,
2000-2004 Honda Odyssey
J30A4 SOHC VTEC 2003-2005 Honda Accord V6
J30A5 SOHC VTEC 2006-2007 Honda Accord V6

J32A1 SOHC VTEC 1999-2003 Acura TL ,2001-2003 Acura CL
J32A2 SOHC VTEC 2001-2003 Acura CL Type-S,2002-2003 Acura TL Type-S
J32A3 SOHC VTEC 2004+ Acura TL

J35A1 1999-2001 Honda Odyssey
J35A3 Acura MDX
2005-2008 Acura RL
J35A4 2002-2004 Honda Odyssey
J35A8 2007-2008 Acura TL Type-S
J35A9 Honda Ridgeline ,Honda Pilot (VTM-4 models)
J35Z1 2005 Honda Odyssey ,2006 Honda Pilot (front-wheel-drive models)
J35Z2 2008+ Honda Accord SEDAN
J35Z3 2008+ Honda Accord Coupe 6MT

J37A1 2007+ Acura MDX ,2009 Acura RL

You've got to be joking 6MTUA5. Why the hell would you want to do that? Not only would it be a lot more expensive seeing as how there isn't a kit out for it, but it takes all the fun out of it. I really do hope your joking because that right there is a recepie for EPIC FAIL.

Oh and to the OP, I dunno about block posting. Some people swear by it. I'm not a huge fan.

250hp? sure. at the crank. maybe not whp. bore it. youll get there.

j30 FTW!!!

this baby can rip at redline 24/7 and still stay strong,but you may not be satisfied with the power,only 200 hp crank,195 torque

j30 FTW!!!

this baby can rip at redline 24/7 and still stay strong,but you may not be satisfied with the power,only 200 hp crank,195 torque

torque is what it's all about

Wow this is a joke (meaning the j engine junk).I think you can make 250 FWHP with that setup. I would make some changes to it if it were me but I think you can make it. What are you going to tune with? Hondata? AEM EMS? Chrome?

This post was last modified: 07-03-2008 01:41 PM by that guy.

Re: J series
That would ruin the fun of having a Bseries that can rev to 9k and make power to 10k...

Re: Block posting
The guys at ENDYN have been doing it since the 60s in NASCAR engines and have had nothing but amazing results. the posts get torqued into place and are sealed after that with "liquid aluminum" and I trust the guys.

Re: Boring it out
I read a thread on Team-Integra that got me inspired. This guy is in Florida and makes consistently 265hp at the wheels on a Mustang dyno and those read low. Naturally aspirated B18C1 with AEM CAI, not even ITBs. Dynojet he ran 293hp...84.5mm bore, LS crank in B18C1 block. 83mm should do it. Eventually though I will bore it to 85mm fir closer to 300whp.

Re: Joke
Yeah, I would never put a Jseries in my car mainly because of the headaches involved in the swap...not to mention, I doubt it would fit in the engine compartment of an Integra... I'm using Hondata s200 as my tuning software and I'll tune it myself for a rough street rune and take it to Jotech Motorsports here in Texas to get it dyno tuned. Thought about Crome, but I've heard wishywashy thing about it, both good and bad.

Yes good shit nothing wrong with chrome though thats what i'll be using for my B20/Vtec but im goina boost it ...

250 hp is quite plausible just takes time, effort, and o yea money.......... but i'm pulling for u

throw an LS1 in there youll be happy

Confirmed, busted, or plausible?


I'd say definitely plausible. Might need to make a couple adjustments but you can do it.

Why not just swap in a H-series?

j series definately arent "junk"
apparently you dont know but the new stock j35 makes 290 at 6k and 256 at 5k rpms to the wheels stock, so yea why not just get one of those dropped in. price wise, look in the right places and the cost would be about the same.

meh, ITBs are really overrated nowadays. you could get the some numbers with a huge TB, and aftermarket intake mani.

i think you're picking out the stuff wayyyy to early to be shooting for HP. your best bet is to take your general idea (yours seems to be an LS bored to 83mm, and i'm not sure on the size of the stock rod, but it seems you're trying to stroke it. choosing out stuff this soon such as oil weight, vtec engagement, injector size, etc, ESPECIALLY if you're shooting for a specific HP and not just wanting to see what your build will get. i'm not saying it is not plausible at all, i'm just saying for HP guesstimates, you cant get that specific and decide yes or no on a number.

but like i said, if you're serious, take a general setup, or an idea of what HP or what mods you want (either or) to a tuner and see what he says.

one question, i didnt see anything about cams in that post....which is quite a big part of a naturally aspirated build. any idea on what you plan in that part?

I said earlier that I wouldn't put a Jseries in my car because I doubt it would fit, there are no kits, and there would be rediculous amounts of headaches with making it work properly.

I won't put an Hseries in there because they make 250 too easily. I want the challenge of 250 from a Bseries, not to mention there's not a whole lot of people running a 250hp NA Bseries. Anyone and everyone can make 250 from an Hseries.

I have done a hell of a lot of research and I think I stand by my guess of 250hp. If not more. If I don't make 250hp, I won't be disappointed considering I'll still have built my own engine with my own money and make about 220hp NA on pump gas.

I'm staying at 83mm simply because I don't trust B18s bored over 84mm for some reason and essentially I just don't want to bore it more than that. Eventually I'll go bigger (possibly to 84.5-85mm), but that's a milestone I'll have to wait for.

Thanks for all your input.

Forgot to add: I'm going ITBs for throttle response. Not to mention, throwing ITBs on my stock B18B1 will net a 15hp gain...pretty significant IMO. A 70mm TB with port matched IM on an engine like my build will make less HP and TQ and have slower throttle response across the RPM range. Huge TBs and Intake manifolds are not necessarily a good thing. Flow can only be increased on the intake side to a certain extent. Once you get to the point of no return (appx 3" on the CAI or SRI tubing, and 70mm on the TB/IM), you can't increase your flow and might even actually lose power due to a lack of restriction. It works similarly to a high flow exhaust in the sense that if your exhaust is too big, you will lose torque due to lack of backpressure.

team-integra.net has a huge section dedicated to intake an exhaust sizing, selection, etc. I would link it up, but I got kicked off and IP banned because they thought I was running a business.

For cams I chose ENDYN bumpstix. http://www.theoldone.com Check them out. They're an awesome company located about 50 miles from my place.

Stock rod length on the LS is 137mm. Hence I chose the Golden Eagle 137mm rods. Gives me a better rod/stroke ratio with the Wiseco pistons I chose. I thought about stroking it, and I might in the future along with the 85mm bore, but I'm not entirely sure yet. I know I can hit at least 220 with what I listed. And I'm ok with "only" 220hp in a 2500lb car.

This post was last modified: 07-14-2008 01:16 PM by ThatOneDude.

so what turned you away from building a B20? And what kind of compression you gonna be at?

I'll have a DD by then, and I've already got the block in the car, so why not stick with the B18? I'm not dissing you or the B20, but it just doesn't make any sense right now for me to build a B20. Unless of course I don't have a DD...we shall see.

ahhhh i c. your going for a challenge. i was waiting what youde say about "just putting an H in there." you siad exactly what i was gonna say. its easy to hit 250, but i guess thats the problem. lol
-keep us posted

It's not going to be easy, and it will take lots of time considering I'm a broke college kid right now...

lol. that would be a potential block. itll leave u the time for all the planning that needs to be done though right?

Absolutely. Soon as I get out of school I'll probably be making about $35K/year. First thing's first will be the student loans and savings. Then I have to move out of the house. THEN I can start on the car...I'm looking at 2 years before I can start building my car.

Waz up man here's the real deal the things you read and maybe see on video cars hitting those numbers, they spent a hit load of money to make it reliable.
You can hit 230-250 range very easy but it must be a B20 just bore your block. Make sure you get a good head port job and port match intake maninad throttle body.IF i was you i would go 11.5.1 compression and the rest is up to the tunner. O yeah and a good header if you want big torque

good luck

i should now seeing that my 1.8 dyno numbers was pretty good

214 whp 142tq

First of all, I have all the evidence I need to know that my setup will be reliable and REALLY expensive.

If you read my original post, you would see that I've decided to go with ITBs. That way I don't have to worry about porting an IM or TB. I'm also going with the Bseries VTEC head that ENDYN has developed in house that is already ported and can support up to 400hp based on flowbench testing. Got it covered.

I thought about going with a B20 if I don't have a daily driver by the time I start this build, otherwise it will be the B18B1 in the car right now. It will be bored out to 83mm which will net me approximately 1925cc (almost 2liters). I'll take it out, tear it apart, let ENDYN work their magic on the boring and block posting, and then I'll go to work on the bottom end and valvetrain. Got it covered.

Also, I'm going to run roughly 12:1 if not 12.5:1 CR. It's not up to the tuner from there. It's completely up to me because it's my car and I'll be paying the tuner to make a good tune. He will have nothing to do with the build, or the components. Just the ECU. Hondata s300. Got that covered, too.

Not to mention, got the header covered. Hytech, or replica, big tube. 2.5" collector. 2.5" piping all the way back. 2.5" cat for inspections. Test-pipe otherwise. Also covered it.

Your numbers are pretty good, but this car will be a dedicated track car that will see MAYBE 100miles a year on the streets.

Also, I've SEEN and helped build Bseries engines that run 260hp NA on a Dynojet. I'm basing my build on a guy in Florida who bored his B18C1 to 84.5mm and used an LS crank. Only 1.5mm difference in dimensions from mine. He consistently runs 260something on a Mustang dyno, and ran a 293 on a Dynojet the one time he had the opportunity to use a Dynojet. He's running 100octane gas. I plan on using 100 octane as well.

I can almost guarantee I'll get 240 out of this setup. ALMOST is the key word.

I've got everything covered that I think I need to cover. If I come across something else that needs to be addressed, I'll cover it.

ENDYN = Energy Dynamics = http://www.theoldone.com

I would think 250 bhp should be no problem at all with this set up. A good tune with 100 octane should get you 250 at the wheels. But I am just guessing. Let us know how it goes.

This post was last modified: 07-24-2008 07:52 AM by jbrew33.

If my research leads me in the right direction, I'll hit 250whp no problem. If not, I'll be plenty happy with a 230whp Integra weighing in at 2300-2500lbs. 10hp/1lb (NA) is a ratio most people only dream of. Fortunately, Honda has blessed us with rediculously light cars and engines that are capable of such numbers, so even stock, Integras, Civics, Preludes, etc. are quicker than most FF cars on the market.