I picked up an EG, and now I'm debating what motor to get for it. The EG is a shell, so I need something quick.

I'm debating between a B16A2, and a B18C1, but is the B18C1 worth the extra month for only 10hp more stock?

Also, if I want 300whp as my end goal, with a turbo kit at low boost, the B16A2 should be plenty, right?

Thanks guys

What do you want to do with it?
autox, roadcourse, ...?

you can get 300 easy out of either motor. its just the c1 is a lil beafier and a lil more expensive. it all depends on what your priorities are.

yeah i'd go with the 18c1
are you gettin it from a type-r?

This post was last modified: 06-24-2008 12:58 PM by crazysi92.

I'd go with the c1 but if your looking the for the cheapest swap and able to gain the most power start building a b20/vtec swap just my opinion.

go for the b16a, better flow and yuo can boost the shit out of it or if you want all motor then go for the b18c , higher compression and great for all motor

B20 VTEC....nuff said

If it is a c1 it is a gsr the motor in a ITR is a c5

If your goal is 300 with some boost than a b16 would work

This post was last modified: 06-24-2008 06:50 PM by 2000gsr.

B18 has a ton more tq over the B16, but personally if you boost it forget vtec, just get a jdm B20(which has a low compression already) and boost that! ive got a friend who did that and its hella faster than many NA B18 vtec cars ive seen

it really depends on what you want but the b18C1 is a little more different than you think, check the torque.

I don't recommend boosting B20's. I've seen several boosted B20 builds with cracked blocks cause the walls are much thinner than B18c blocks. But then again, it depends on your tune and HP.

another new forum and already there is a bunch of BS misinformation in this thread!

This post was last modified: 06-27-2008 08:30 AM by chad.

NO, it doesn't flow better..they're practically the same.

lsVtec or b20Vtec with GSR tranny

If you are going NA, you need all the displacement you can get. So, b20VTEC or b18c1 or c5 is best

If you are going FI, you need all the money you can get. So b16 or b18b

Since when did ITR's come with GSR motors?

What? FI is the most cost effective way to make power. My buddy made 580 whp, 11.8 sec 1/4 mile on a stock block with a stock head except dual valve springs and TI rets. with a $3500 full race turbo setup and tuning done by Churches in So Cal.
Try getting close to that on an NA build with that budget.

Both motors get would get you the same....just save some money and get the cheaper one!

JUST GO WITH THE B18C1 THE INTERNALS CAN TAKE MORE POWER AND THE BOTTOM END OF A B16 IS TOO WEAK. THE GSR ENGINE MIGHT BE 10+HP BUT AT THAT POINT YOU CAN MAKE MORE POWER AND TORQUE, JUST GET THE GSR BECOUSE B16S ARE TOO WEAK AND BLOW FAST UNDER GREAT COMPRESION. OR IF YOU WANT BUILD A LS-V EITHER WAY YOU WILL NOT BE DISAPOINTED. AS LONG AS YOU DONT GET THE B16. LIKE THEY SAY YOU GET WHAT YOU PAID FOR IF YOU WANT SOMETHING FOR CHEAP UNO WHAT TO EXPECT. GETTING GREAT POWER IS NOT CHEAP

This post was last modified: 07-01-2008 08:16 PM by chubbie.

Holy worthless threads batman!

As earlier mentioned, C5 is an ITR engine. C1 is USDM GSR ONLY!

Beaten to death in the civic forums for crying out loud. Its an inferior bottom end if you want to make real power. Not that much faster than the GSR or even the B16.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_B_engine#B16
The B16 is just as high compression as the B18C1 thank you very much.

300 WHP is achievable in any motor with a turbo. Ok, well maybe not a briggs and stratton 2 stroke.

A turbo street car is generally going to be faster than any NA street car. Vtec or not. Any idiot can throw 4K at a turbo kit and force 15 or more lbs of boost into an engine to make it a screamer. Building a reliable and fast NA engine takes a lot of time and patience. Not to mention the research into different parts to understand what is needed. Its also a hell of a lot rarer for someone to do this. Props to the N/A men.

Werd.

x2

Why is everybody so focused on hybrid engines in here? Is it the new JDM or something? Professional engineers designed these engines... you think you can do a better job?

Your going to need money no matter what. Displacement... ehhh, there are ways around that.

Both motors are NOT the same. Stop wasting our time.

This post was last modified: 07-02-2008 10:17 AM by that guy.

lol. thats y i didnt come back in here.

well iterlude, your absolutely right. But unfortunately your post doesn't help him in any way with his choice.

- i was one of the first posts. the guy never posted back. wut can i say

I agree..lot more impressive to see a quick N/A car then a turbo'ed one.

I don't want to be an asshole, but I thought this was an all-motor forum...

FI goes in the FI thread.

On topic:
B18C1 would be a better match for the EG if you want a light as hell with gobs more torque than the B16A2. The heads flow at a nearly identical rate with the B18C1 flowing MAYBE 3CFM more.

Also, in order to make 300 N/A hp, you'll need to sleeve the block, grab a block girdle from Golden Eagle or get the block posted by ENDYN in Ft. Worth, TX, bore out the cylinders to 86mm, grab an LS crank, Wiseco 86mm +4cc pistons and pins, Golden Eagle 137mm rods, ARP bolts (All over), and a whole slew of other parts.

300whp out of an NA Bseries is very difficult and very expensive andmight not be too terribly reliable except for maybe a few 1/4mi runs at sub10seconds with full drag suspension.

My goal is 250whp. Let me know if you want to know what I'm doing.

Damn hes right...

Instead of posting, I would use darton mid sleeves. They can be replaced individually and have a solid deck with coolant holes drilled in it. VERY strong too. Will hold over 45 lbs of boost or so they say on their site.

As for 300 WHP on a N/A B-Series engine. Your going to need to rebuild that thing almost every week I would imagine. That is what most professional race teams do with engines built that way. I mean your talking some serious compression (13:1?) on race gas for that kind of power.

250 NA/WHP is much more doable. I was looking at a similar build at one point in my integra as well. Good luck with it and be sure to post pictures and all that. I love Screaming NA monsters.

You could do the Darton Midsleeves, I forgot about those. Since ENDYN is essentially in my backyard, I'm going to take my block there for the machining and posting. I'm also going to nab one of their Bseries VTEC heads, bare and a set of their bump stix. The GE top sleeve girdle is overkill IMO, considering I'm getting the posting done, but you can't be too careful with a $10K engine.

Don't mean to steal the thread, just threw out my input hoping to benefit the readers.

Ultimately, the engine choice is up to you. The 1.8 has more low end torque, but not nearly as much top end power as the 1.6, and the 1.8 is easier to build to 200-250hp than the 1.6.

whats this gobs more torque BS, honda's dont have torque period. x2 on the Pr3 and P72 head not being the same, THEY arent. The power goal here is low enough that its just preference at this point, either engine can do 250whp easily.

250hp is NOT easy in either engine when going NA. With boost, you can make 500-600hp very easily. It takes a lot of tuning, time, money, and thought to get there, and there's no guarantee you'll even get there reliably.

The B18C1 has a good bit more torque than the B16A2 due to the larger displacement. I agree that the torque numbers are low, but that doesn't mean that the B18C1 and the B16A2 have different torque number.

The PR3 and P72 are different, yes. But they both can be put on top of ANY Bseries engine, and they have very miniscule flow differences.

Well the OP said a turbo kit with low boost, so N/A builds dont really matter at this point. Yes the head go on just about and B-series, but sometimes when dealing with stock components for a boost application the PR-3 is better because the larger combustion chamber lowers compression slightly. This would only be something to worry about if streetablity and detonation were a factor. In this case they arent, these numbers are gravy for either.

And your right on the torque numbers bigger displacement= more torque, but its so miniscule now that I hardly see the point.

This post was last modified: 07-19-2008 05:59 AM by Boost Addiction.