Okay guys.. here is the wonderful diagram of the meth kit I will be making; took me a damn hour to make this.




You know... although it's nice that the UPS man brings you stuff.. but at the same time, you want to kill the bastard for obnoxiously banging on your door while you're sleeping. Anyway, here's the oil sandwich adapter that came in a few mins ago:



The filter thread already on the block screws into this side:



the oilter filter itself screws on to this side:









Looks pretty good and well built for $27.99 plus shipping. I'll install it today as well as the first half of the oil feel line. More pics soon to come

Alright guys, another chapter to the turbo thread everyone dies to see.

To start off, I noticed that my oil feed line was TOOOO long, as you can see below... The line has to be 3 feet to be efficient.



what you have to do is get rid of the part of the line that's covered in plastic, put it aside somewhere just incase you need it in the future.



Now, what you want to do is grab the adapter kit you got in the mail.. and pull out the double-edged O-ring for the sandwich adabpter:



Place it on the adapter as shown so you know it fits correctly:



Grab some of that funky juice



dip your finger in that oil and rub coating above and below that ring for a tight proper seal:









Now, line up the adanpter, with the holes facing AWAY from axle shaft, you want to make sure you have no clearance issues when your axle's there; then grab the threaded adapter that comes with the kit and screw it into place until it's snug and the adapter's seated properly against the assembly.







Remember, facing AWAY from the axle shaft:



Once you do this, bust out the oil filter you'll be using. For my cheap self, I got a fram filter. LOL Rub with your finger over the o-ring oil as well, then screw it on nice and tight:








Then from there, route your oil feed line the way you feel will be hidden, yet PLEASE ALLOW ROOM FOR PLAY since the engine will be moving alot.. you don't want your line to get damanged, have your oil leak causing your to kill your turbo as well as engine. what I did as well was use one of the vacuum line holders as a bracket for keeping the oil feed line in place.





Then from there, get your 90 degree angle adapter and screw it into the sandwich adapter and then screw in your line using an open end combination wrench.



Oil sandwich filter installed:



Make sure everything fits properly:



And then.. You're done! for now.

So.. about that syncomesh that eveyrone keeps talking about..

Seeing that the crap is $13 a bottle and in some places $11 or so, i'm going to go with the PENZOIL Syncromesh since it's the same GM liquid, but just under a different brand name for ALOT cheaper. With the curiousity killing me.. i decided.. why not. SO... i recommend changing your tranny fluid too guys for the turbo setup.. you never know what hell you're going to put your tranny though. LOL

So hop under your car.. and look for that drain bolt. this ONE pic applies to both the autos and manuals...

Grab that 3/8" long socket, and stick it in there, crack that thing open!





I can't believe that after so many miles, the liquid is as perfect as the day I put it in!




Once you're done, close the bolt up again and refill to recommended fluid capacities for the transmission. For the manuals, look for this fill bolt; it's a 1/2" insert, so get a 1/2" drive extension, and put it in there, as well as use a breaker bar, that sh*t is a B*TCH. For the automatics, your filling bolt will be labeled "ATF" located towards ttop rear of the transmission, you can't miss it. It's a 17mm Bolt.

Alright, this isn't a DIY, just progress pics. DIY to come soon. removed my pads and rotors... what a nasty thing to see.... I had so little left on the pads.. talk about reduced stopping power





Did some extension work for the front end connectors:

Alright guys... another DIY.. .this time, it's the FPR.. I didn't realize how easy it was to install until I sat there and looked it it for 5 mins straight..

Alright here goes.. first off guys, this DIY is for the j32a2, It looks like the j30a1 and J32a1 engines have a differently mounted OEM FPR so I'll make another DIY for the FPR exclusively for the j30 and j32a1 engines. Just remind me when i'm done with the project.

Alright.. first off.. here's our target:



Take your adjustable wrench.. (as you can see, we've been using this simple tool throughout the entire DIY.. not bad for $8 lol) and loosen the FPR (remember, a few steps back, fuel pressure should already have been released from removing the fuel pump)



Then remove it with your hands:



Then you're left with this:



You're going to want to hold on to that FPR incase you want to revert back to stock when selling the car down the road..

Now, take a close look at the FPR you just removed, you want to take that rubber gasket from it, (it prevents any fuel leakage) but do this carefully, you don't want to tear it and have to spend another few cents for a replacement:



Then find an appropriate washer to take the place of the old one, test fit it to make sure it fits okay (I had to modify one since I didn't have any and lowes was too far away, lol) :





Then find a piece from the FPR kit (for the turbo) that screws into the thread where the FPR once was, place washer on to it first, and then the rubber gasket you removed from the old FPR.







And then screw in the new piece into the thread, use your adjustable wrench to tighten:





Remove this vacuum line, we'll be replacing it soon:



The tubing that came with the kit, go to autozone, and get 2 feet of it for the FPR, it's very close to the original tubing so it'll work fine. You'll be cutting off any extra tubing you don't need.



Now grab your FPR:



Here is a hex screw with a gasket that screws into one of the sides, insert it in the direction that'll be facing the driver since the other side will be where the psi gauage is mounted.







Now we run into a problem... Nothing that home depot cant fix! (i'll do this part tomorrow)



Now, what you want to do is loosen the FPR mount with an allen key.



Then we bend and remove the bracket:



Remove the braket, and straighten it out on a flat surface:



We'll be removing the following bracket to put in the FPR's place:



So, with a 10mm socket wrench, start unscrewing as well as removing the purge solenoids that are connected to that bracket:







Remember to put the screw back in the thread so you don't lose it!



We'll get back to these soon, so keep the solenoids together.

Test fit for clearance and where you will be drilling your hole in the bracket for the mounting screw:



Part two of this DIY will happen tomorrow when I get more materials from advance auto (fuel hose, adapter fittings, nipples, and hose clamps).

I swear, I go through HELL trying to figure out how to assemble a kit that comes with no directions. haha. More pics and steps tomorrow

The regulator comes with the kit.. and to relieve fuel pressure, take your adjustable wrench and loosen the hex nut on this assembly:



make sure your keys are not in the ignition when you do this. I would cover this as well sine there will be a very small amount gasoline shooting out of it. Once you have it loosened, you're straight. If you don't have an adjustable wrench, you can use an open end combination wrench, it should 19mm, but I haven't checked lately.

Well, did some more work today while waiting for that check in the mail... still.. I called Payroll and basically was like "wtf is up with my paycheck". the guy was baffled that it still hasn't gotten to me yet since it's been a week as of today. He said for me to wait until the end of the week, if nothing, I'll have to find another way to get it. Anyway, here's continued pics of the FPR and battery DIY i left off from last time:

EDIT: I'LL REPOST REVISED DIRECTIONS FOR THE FPR

Now, moving on to the trunk...

Since I have no money and still waiting for the check, I had to sacrifice a tool for these... actually, I originally wanted the walmart cookies.. those vanilla sandwiched ones.. but... my "conscious" got the best of me and for $5.80, I got quite a bit that did alot:



Electrical tape, alligator clips to make my own test wires, BLACK cable ties (best for hiding anything), and red 18 gauge wire. Since I was going to do some re-wiring for a neon light in the trunk, extending the OBDII interface and a few other things, I figured.. heck, why not..

First off, to remove your trunk lining, you want to go after the screws that hold it in place, for me, all I had left were these two:



Any any of these:



Once you get all of the screws holding the lining in place, start pulling it out CAREFULLY... you don't want to rip any wiring or tear the material itself.. it's rather expensive unless you can find a TL or CL in a junkyard.. which is rare:







that is one CLEAN looking rear... this is a good time to vacuum also if you can.



Now, your battery wires as well as any other wire you choose will be coming out of this hole, it's right next to the rear shocks:



If you can reach your arm around if it's long enough, you'll be able to feed the wiring through easily as seen below:



My finger:



here comes the first set of wires (neon light):



I'll have more pictures of wiring running through the car once I get the check to go out and buy 4 gauge wiring.

In the mean time, I did manage to completely rewire my fog light harness and added quick connects to make it a lot less noticeable, easily removable, as well as cuing my fog lights to turn on when the parking lights are on:





re-used the wire loom for protection:







Also.. for those who have bought their fog lights from ebay... PLEASE CHECK YOUR FUSE that's inside of the harness... wasn't too happy to find this..

Pop open the top of this fuse holder:



The bad guy:




As a reminder.. for anyone that is wiring up the interior of his or her car for any reason, i.e any harness of some sort, use quick connects, you'll be surprised how convenient they become.

Alright, still waiting on a stupid check.. I'll have to call in and tell these idiots to cancel this check and re-issue a new one to go straight to the store instead so I can pick it up on my way to walking to the storage unit.. tired of this bs.

Anyway, here's some install pics. I went ahead and extended the e-brake's signal wire from where the foot e-brake used to be to the handbrake that's over at the center console. Also, I used a quick connect to insulate the the wire from the handbrake as well so it doesn't accidentally ground and show up on the dash that the brake is engaged even though it's not:





I also extened the OBDII data interface's wires so the plug's in teh center console instead of under that cover underneath the radio. It's such a pain to get to sometimes when you have an unexpected check engine light. Now when that light comes on, I can just pull back the arm rest and it's right there for me to just grab onto and just scan the ecu:





Since I re-wired my fog light harness, all of the wire loom that came from it can be re-used for the sensor's wires:







Nicely tucked away..



So, as I was putting back the carpet (I'll just pull it back a little when it's time to put in the battery cables), look what I found..



Carpet's in, and finishing up wiring the lighting for the truck and underseat neons.... it's not rice when done right. Talk abotu dirty carpet.. damn..



I'm going to leave the driver's side unfinished until I get the cables. Same goes for the trunk as well.



Don't forget your panels on the passenger's side;







tighten the passenger side seat belt bolt as well before throwing in the chair:







Testing the wiring I put in the other day, so far so good:



The trunk:




Got the seat in there.. it is a b*tch to lift that thing and put it sideways to get it into the car with the space I have. but alas, it's been done:



SO far so good in the front:



even light distribution in the back:



Then I made a slit in the carpeting at the corner to fit the harness so I can be able to PnP and remove it on the fly when needed for testing:



I can't put the driver's side seat in yet until once again.. the check comes in.

If you guys wonder why i'm going with the blue lighted setup, this is what it looked like before I did the 6 speed conversion:



All comments welcome.

Also... a few more pics for today: There the rest of the fuel pump DIY, as well as the battery relocation DIY will be posted up tonight after I get back from the storage unit.

Apparently, I have one more package that's locked in the mailbox, I'll go ahead and intercept the mailman tomorrow and **** him up for it.

Here's pics!



The outer tie rods:





Walbro 255 fuel pump, if anyone needs info for it, here's the specs below:

Specifications:
Design: Intank
Flow: 255LPH High Pressure
Minimum Voltage: 12V
Operating Pressure: 35-100psi
Part Number: GSS342 w/ 400-826 Kit
Installation Kit Included: YES







Tomorrow, the headlights, grille, and more goodies come in, thursday is the turbo timer and nokia cable to build the emanage clone data cable, friday comes the gauges and saturday start up!

Surprisingly, I'll actually thought about that be doing this! I have plans to make a CAI for the turbo inlet.. you shall see soon Thing is, would it really matter though since you have an intercooler to begin with?.. let alone, mine is HUGE compared to the xs power intercooler:





More than likely, I'll run 3" piping to the filter, pics to come soon.

Actually, I'll be routing the intake to me point towards a nice little vent through the bumper I'll be making... you'll see

I haven't seen it yet since i'm not on acurazine much anymore, I can see what it looks like and if it does work, I can always make replicas of it easily for really cheap.

Especially with that tiny intercooler of yours, yeah, that would be awesome, so, when will you be getting back from the islands to completely finish up your install or do you have some time left now before you go off?

A little harder?.. nahhh



Look carefully, see? problem solved


You don't have to remove the reman bar, you just have to get creative with how you place the intercooler. Mind you, my intercooler's MUCH bigger both in height, length, and with compared to the xs power intercooler, and I still get clearance and able to put back on the reman bar:







You just need to route your piping and mount your brackets in a way that it doesn't even have to touch the reman bar. It's possible, trust me.


Look at your piping and brackets again, you can keep the bar as well ;)

Alright, here goes.. here's the different between the OEM pump and the walbro pump.. it's MUCH bigger.. OMG.





The rear seat will be my couch/bed/resting area for the next couple of days... yes, on the door indeed..



Ghetto rigged an antenna to have the time pass..



And here's Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner... haven't had the funds to get food yet... have to do this, the harnesses and kits and pay for school all at the same time.. ****.



Okay, gather everything you need, the install kit for the pump, the pump itself, pump assembly, a 6.5mm socket wrench or combination wrench and a piece of plastic.

First off, remove the caps that cover both inlet and outlet of the pump:





Slide over the provided fuel hose onto the pump:



grab one of the two hose clamps and slide it to the hose, then tighten:









Once your done, grab your assembly and cut down the hose until both the hose and pump fit into the assembly easily. Also use the pump retainer to further help you estimate how long the tube should be:
This is the retainer clip:



As you can see, the hose is too long:



So I cut down the hose:



Slide the hose clamp over the hose and then slide the hose over the fitting inside of the pump assembly:





DO NOT add the retainer clip yet, you're not done yet.

grab the harness and plug it back into the pump:







install this clip if you have removed it:





Now grab that lovely white filter element for the pump:



You're going to be placing it on the bottom of the pump with it aligned to the notch sticking out.. press down until you hear it either click or snap into place:







Now, get your retainer clip, and carefully snap it into place, this holds the filter in place as well:





Congrats! You officially installed your own fuel pump:

Alright, grab that work light folks and hop into your trunks to get high off of lovely fumes









Grab your assembly and the screws that hold it in place (there should be 8 of them)



Watch out for that arm with the floating peice on it, you don't want to bend or damage that since it connects to your fuel gauge sending unit:



Remove the plastic covering you had on the quick connects:



Align all of your holes you can put the screws in, you want to screw them in with your hands first, then screw them in with your hands some more with a socket, and then tighten them down. this is THE DIRTIEST part of the entire car surprisingly.









This grime is disgusting... ugh.



If you have trouble getting the quick connects back on, use adjustable wrench as leverage like I did. snapped on instantly.





*** FYI: if you get lost and don't remember which way the assembly was positioned, the best thing to do is look at the connector that plugs into it, that gives you a perfect understanding on how the assembly was positioned:



Alright, now that the assembly is installed, plug in the harness:





make sure all of the holes on the cover plate line up with the rubber gromments on teh floor before screwing in anything, you'll see each side has a pattern:





hand screw each screw then tighten:





and....... you're done! CONGRATS!

Alright... here's how bad my shoes look... lmao

These used to be my work shoes.. hahaahahahaaa



This is what 56 miles of walking a week does to them... the swollen marks next to my finger, on the right, they're only a mm or two thick, after that, my feet are there.



The soles, are warn so bad to the point where you can see my finger through them..



Tonight, I start working on the wheels:




Also, more goodies came in the mail today!!!







No more '99 grille! Helllllo sexiness



Ingalls camber kit from peter, good seller to work with.. A++

They give up to a 4 degree adjustment... so you know what that means... tires are going to be in the fenders









50ft roll of heat wrap with 5 free ties.. 25 more in a seperate package on the way..



The Infamous headlights... soon to be blacked out!





Time for me to be off to walmart... again.. have to get the battery tie-downs along with terminal connectors and off to lowes for wiring.... Starting to get lightheaded with chest pains, my legs and back hurt really bad too... not good.

Alright guys... eyes are killing me, back is killing me.. so bare with me here when it comes to posting this long.. really long DIY... good luck reading. lol


Here's that lovely double gulp that keeps me going:



So, walking from walmart, I got these lovely items, battery wire lugs and the terminal connectors that come two, both in red and black for $3.77.











Got better fuses for the fogs:



This is the adapter I had to get, there's one more for the FPR as well:





The infamous 4 gauge wire.. soo pretty. You'll want 20 feet of this so you 'll have the most flexibility in cutting down sizes. Trust me, this will be all you need for the entire battery relocation DIY:



Okay, what you want to do first is straighten out the wire you'll be using. It's pretty damn long for 20 ft:



Next, start running it through the opening you've seen in my previous steps, it'll go into the cabin of the car (damn you kris :rofl



Pull it through:





Then from there, start pulling back the carpet:





And then thread the wire through the two large holes on the cabin floor:









Make sure you go under the gas door release:



And then up through the driver's side (If there is a grommet/hole covering there, remove it. insert a grommet over the opening to prevent the wire from cutting into the metal, like a rubber shield around the wire:





and through that lovely opening where the stock air intake used to be:



Notice how you have ALOT of wire left, you're going to make a notch and cut where you think the positive wiring should end:







Notice, you have at least 6 more feet to play with, this will be your negative wire that grounds to the car:

Now, get your zip ties, and make everything nice and neat before you replace the carpeting:



cut off all of that extra stuff you don't need:



Look, you barely even notice the wire there!



Now replace your carpeting by pulling on the black tabs and then knocking them in with the palm of your hand or a rubber mallet:





Now, make sure the cable's running far away behind the fuel door release, but away from the dead pedal as well:



Now you don't even notice it's there :



Organize the cable going behind the fender (only 5-7 bolts hold the fender in place, isn't that sad? lol :



Grab the interior parts for that side of the cabin:



Replace everything, and don't forget to screw in teh bolt for your seatbelt as well:









After that piece is in:



Install the next one that goes in between the left rear passenger door:



Installed:



Then the hood release (yes, i know it's dirty.. don't care yet. lol):





Then the driver's side door panel:





Floor panel complete:



Don't finish with teh interior just yet, first we have to finish up the trunk!

What you want to do now is take your trunk matted wall, and mark the spots where you want your cables coming out with a sharpie marker:



Oh yeah, don't forget that piece!:



It goes on this, what you want to do is lift up the release and slide the assembly underneath it:



With your handy dandy soldering iron... not your good one, the bad one (i've been using it for 2 years now. lol) you can it find at walmart for less than $4, use it to melt the holes you want into the matting:







look how perfect that hole is!

Now thread your wires through the holes as you reinsert the lining into your trunk again:







Then take your battery and position it the way you want it to sit in the car, I have my terminals facing away from the trunk just incase:



now make notches of where you'll be cutting down your wire again, this time for stripping them for the connectors:



What a nifty little tool: you can find this at any store for less than $10.. if the cable is hard to cut, bend it back and forth as if it is metal. When you bend any conducting material, metal, copper, etc. it heats up, the more and faster you bend, the easier and faster it will separate. Cut my wires in under a minute!





As for stripping the wire, you can be like me and burn it off with the soldering iron, or you can just use a blade/utility knife so you can peel away the plastic and cut it.



Now go grab your connectors and lay them out so you can see everything:



Since they're painted, we're still going to scratch them off a little so expose some more metal for better conductivity. So grab your conductor, and with an 11mm socket, feel free to unscrew the metal plate:





Scrap away more of the paint:



Reassemble the terminal and add it to the cable that's going through the car:



Tighten it and then do the same with the other, the short wire will be your negative terminal:



Before:



After:



Now grab one cable lug, slide it over the negative wire, and crimp it:









And very tightly, insulate it with electrical wire, go with the Scotch brand, it works and adheres best:



Now find a good ground to connect this to, this is a good one that I found (located behind the matting:





Tighten the bolt:



Done! You have successfully grounded the battery! The other ground will be ahead later in the install when i'm doing the engine.



Then we put back the screws that hold the lining in that we took out earlier:



It's almost finished, just have to find a tie-down and battery cover:



And now to test, you can use your jumper cables like did. Red clamps go on the fusebox and new battery wire, the black clamps go on the transmission and a ground: