ALL CREDIT FOR THIS DIY GOES TO JOE





TURBO TIMER INSTALL

Alright guys, sorry it took me a while to update you guys, but I'm finally able to do so. To start off, we'll be doing the turbo timer install. For this, you'll need:

- Screwdriver
- Patience
- The turbo timer + harness
- Wire stripper
- Soldering Iron
- heat wrap
- blow drier or heat gun
- Multimeter
- blade
- cable ties (preferrably black for hiding wires)

INSTALL TIME: 2-3 hours if you take your time and make it neat

***DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS INSTALL, IF NOT, YOU YOU RUN THE RISK OF EITHER SCREWING UP YOUR SWITCH OR BLOWING YOUR MAIN IGN FUSE ($3 REPLACEMENT AT AUTOZONE), ONCE THIS HAPPENS, YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO START YOUR CAR, USE ANY ACCESSORIES, AS WELL AS NO ALARM ACTIVE INCASE YOU WALK AWAY FROM THE CAR***

Grab your socket wrench and disconnect the batter:



To start off, take note of everything you have, make sure the turbo timer's in perfect condition and no harm's been done to the harness:

Take note that for US models, the Grey wire is NOT needed, so disgregard this one!

Also, the Honda Accord (select models) has TWO IGN/ON wires, instructions for hooking this up will come later on in the DIY









The main harness:

Black: Ground
Blue: IGN1
Red: Constant 12v +
Green: IGN2
Purple (safety feature): Taps into the speed signal wire (vss)off the engine wiring harness.
Brown (safety feature): Taps into the handbrake switch wire



To start off, remove the the plastic covers that cover the steering wheel assembly:



Look straight for the ignition switch, it's the gray assembly to where the key goes in:



Look for the black cover at the end of the assembly, this is where the switch is located:



Remove the cover carefully:



Remove the switch carefully by first removing the two screws that hold in place. Then pull it out exactly as it is:




On the back of it, you will see little abbreviations:

ACC (accessories), BATT (battery), IGN1 (ON), IGN2(ON), ST (Starter)

The colors of these wires will change depending on the year of the car. This DIY applies to the 2000 Honda Accord Coupe. I will provide more wiring diagrams/colors for other cars upon request.

Strip away the wire loom that protects the the ignition switch harness, you'll expose yourself to 5 wires:





With your scissors, you will be doing the following:

First, cut the yellow wire (IGN wire):



Then the Black/Yellow wire( the other IGN wire):



Then the white (constant 12v+):



Now grab your wire stripper and strip both ends of the wiring you've just cut. make sure you strip them long enough to be able to wrap them around each other:









Both ends stripped cleanly:



Now grab your harness, and cut off the end of it that DOESN'T HAVE THE GROUND:



Strip those ends nice and long as well:



Now, once you do this, follow these steps carefully:

First, have the GREEN wire go to the Black/Yellow wire. This is the wire that doesn't drop voltage when the starter is turned on. If you are unsure which IGN wire the green wire taps into if you have a different year; grab your multimeter, replace the switch back to where it was quickly attach the cut wires back together; and with your multimeter, out of the two IGN wires, the one that does NOT drop the voltage completely when the starter is used is the wire you connect the green to. The blue wire will go to the other IGN wire.



The BLUE wire goes to the yellow wire:



The RED wire goes to the white wire:



Now grab your heat shrink and cut them up into the appropriate lengths. You can find these at Lowes/Home Depot for less than $2 for a whole pack:





Slide the heat shrink over the new connection:



Tie in the other ends of the wires you've previous stripped:



Now, grab your soldering Iron and Solder, you want the resin core kind. I recommend a soldering gun since it instantly heats up within seconds and does a crazy ass good job:



Solder away!!!:





Now slide up the heat wrap over the open connection:



Grab your heat gun/blow driver:



Remember to put it on hot, you want to shrink the hell out of this thing:



Shrink away! ***Make sure you don't over do it, you don't want to heat up the wire too much to where it'll go through the rubber***:



Done, pretty ain't it? lol:



Repeat the same steps for the other two (as you can see, this is ALOT better than electrical tape):





Now bunch them all together making it one nice clean harness and get cable ties to wrap them together:









Now, replace the switch along with the screws and plastic covering that hold it in place:





Look, you can't even see it's there:



Now pass the harness for the turbo timer though the metal opening:



Now, to place the turbo timer, we need to remove that ugly coin holding tray:





Using a set of pliers or your screwdriver, there's two notches in the rear that need to be flattened, once you do that, bend the metal frame on both sides toward the center so the turbo timer can fit in there tightly with no movement at all:



Now look at the hole in there, this is where you'll be slipping the rest of the turbo timer's harness through:







Place the turbo timer in there and admire your work for 5 minutes before continuing...



Remember, you DO NOT use the Grey wire if your car is not JDM!



Connect the harnesses together:



Get the black wire that's coming from your harness grounded:



and now, reconnect your battery, and start the car!

VIOLA!!!!



Now, to select the amount of time you want the car to idle before shutting down, do the following:

Press "TIME" each time for increments of 10 seconds, if you hold it down for more than 2 seconds, it'll do increments of 30 seconds:



To test, we did 30 seconds. Once you're done, press "SELECT"... the LCD will displace -L- to confirm that you have choosen your settings. Now to apply as well, since this is an auto, once you press the brake (signaling that you've come to a stop to park), it's now activated.



Now, to make sure it works, turn the key to turn off your car like you normally would and remove the key from the ignition switch. You will hear a beep as a warning and then it will start counting down by flashing red on the LCD with SiD displayed:



Once it turns off, you now you you were successfull!!!!

Now, to place everything back together again:

Clean up your install area/wiring harness by putting it away with another black cable tie:



Replace the lower steering wheel assembly cover:



Replace the lower cover's screws (there's three):







Make sure the wheel height lever moves freely:



Replace the top cover for the assembly:





DONE!
The panel that covers the wiring under the steering wheel, we'll leave off since the next step in the turbo DIY is the battery relocation:



Wow, what a clean install! Only takes 2-3 hours if you take your time with a few cans mountain dews. lol


Total expense: $85-90 (turbo timer already included)





BATTERY RELOCATION

Alright guys, here's what you got to do to get the battery from the front to the back.. there are ALOT of pictures here so bare with me. lol

First off, we'll have to remove the driver's side seat as well as the passenger side seat as well (later on to pull back carpeting to get to the ecu's wiring)

You'll see 4 different bolts holding your seat down as well as harnesses plugged into the bottom of your seat if you have automatic seats like my car and Cheif's car. For the 4 bolts, you want to use a 14mm socket to get all of those off.

Here are the locations, they're the same for every accord v6, acura cl, and acura TL:









Grab your socket wrench and get workin':



Remove the seat:



Now grab your 10mm Socket and feel around for the bolt that holds down the bottom rear seat, normally it's right near the middle where an arm rest would be:









Once you remove the bolt, lift up each side of the bottom seat, you'll have to put some "umph" into it since the clips are pretty hardcore.. somewhat. lol







Undo your seat belt with the 14mm socket. Make sure you keep track of where it goes back in:



Now grab your screwdriver (flathead) and slowly pry the panel out until you can start doing it with your hands:







Use your screw driver to take out the grommet to get to the 14mm bolt that holds the seat belt strap in place:









Remove the screw that holds this part in place:



Don't forget the neighborhood rent-a-cop, he's useful as well:



LMAO.

Alright, get your honda key and unlock the seat so it can flip down:



Remove the back seating panel, usually it's either grey or black:





Remove the rear seat belt:



And then start pulling the top panel away:



You want to open up your trunk and clean out the junk you have in there:



Now clean trunk:



Once this is done, remove the plastic assemblies on the side that hold the car's user manual and utensils on the side:





Don't forget to take out the trunk guard in the back as well:





Removed:



Now, once that's done, start removing the screws that hold the lining in place starting with this one:



And the two tabs:





Now go into the car and remove the tab exposed in the back as well:



Now start removing the trunk lining:







The trunk floor removed:



The metal framing exposed:





Sucks to be stuck in a car working on a rainy car.. eh, oh well:



Moving on, while all of these are out, before we relocate the battery, there's another thing we need to do first.. remember that purple/brown harness we haven't plugged in yet from the turbo timer? We have to remove the center console to get to the brake switch as well as pull back carpeting to get to the ecu wiring:

So.. with that in mind, we'll do the following:

This will all go away:



To start off, remove the following screws on both sides of the console located near the radio:









Remove the screws that run along the bottom of the console:



...Battery Relocation To Be Continued








Here's the first wave of progress pics, I'll get back to the DIY once I get the rest of the pics uploaded... but for now, here goes:

The car on ramps:



We worked on the porch and cut and tacked the piping for fitment:





Perfect match!









The tapped oil pan (DIY to come):



Wait until you see the intercooler mounted; Unlike everyone elses' setups, with the way I mounted this intercooler, no need to modify OR remove the reinforcement bar

The tacked piping.. fits PERFECT! When I get back to chief's house, we'll be finishing his setup and I'll finish up writing up this DIY as well as how to tune. We'll be doing a street tune (him driving, me with the laptop) before going to Orlando for the big meet

Here they are:

The tacked header pipes and charge pipes:



The rear header's flange HAS to be at an angle for it to fit:



I had to expose my hand for this one:





The test-fitted flange for the BOV, we had to grind down the edges for it to sit on the piping perfectly:



For the test fitment, we had to cut away a small section of the frame (the tabbed part that sticks out)... it's such a tight fit!



I had to angle his turbo funny as well to get it to fit in there...

So flush



Surprisngly, Chief got lucky, for some reason his kit came with a Super T70 unlike mine (t30e).. but some others got the T70 as well:



Headers installed:



Now, to cut up and re-weld his downpipe/flexpipes:

OIL PAN TAP

To start off, jack your car up, you can either roll it up onto the rhino-ramps, or use jack stands:



Unbolt your headers to get access to the pan.

When you get the chance, go out to Lowes, and you'll do the following:

If you don't have a drill, go buy one, and then purchase a hole saw for metal, this is the size that we got:





Look into your box of turbo bits:



Outof the two pieces here, while you're at lowes, get another brass fitting that is the EXACT size as teh bigger of the two below, we're not going to be using the smaller one:



Then before removing your oil pan, grab an oil catch pan and then drain:



To remove the oil pan, click on this link: [URL="http://v6performance.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1326250&postcount=272"]http://v6performance.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1326250&postcount=272[/URL]
or just check out PAGE 10 of the thread titled " The Next Turbo J32A2 6MT (DIY In Progress)" The removal process for the Honda Accord V6 is the same as the Acura TL.

To our convineince, chief has a pressure washer I can use to clean the oil pan out... if you don't have one, 30 mins, soap and water will do as well:





Now the oil pan is clean:



Now wipe everything down until dry, this is very important:



Now, you want to mark the place your fitting will be tapped into that's the highest point of the oil pan as well as CLEARING the headers... in this case, we put ours over here:



Grab your drill:



Attach the hole saw:



Find the place you've marked/keyed:



Now drill away CAREFULLY... this step shouldn't take longer than 30 secs:







*** Now, the screw that used to go through the hole above that mates the oil pan to the engine block, do not forget to put it back before moving back to the next step! ***
basically, it's the hole above the place where you marked where your fitting goes in.


To make sure the fitting fits, thread it into the hold manual with your hand until it is difficult to turn...



Now, you'll need a giant breaker bar (preferrably 18" and up) and a deep socket for the bracket:



Slide it over the fitting to make sure it fits and clears:



Then tighten away... eventually, if you're not strong enough like me, you'll need two people for this... one to hold the pan down and another to screw in the fitting... it's a good 5-10 min job since the fitting's tight in there:





and there you go:







Although it's almost impossible for oil to leak, just for precaution, get J.B. Weld epoxy (the black/red kind) it's the strongest there is, and apply a coating on the inside of the pan around the fitting:



Now either get a heat gun (SETTING MUST BE ON LOW HEAT) or average blow drier, and have it blow on the mixture until you're able to touch it.



after 15-20 mins, remove the dryer and let it sit in the sun or area that is not humid for 15-20 hrs, and once it's completely cured, you've successfully tapped your oil pan for the oil return line!

You'll be needing a socket wrench with a good amount of leverage, extension, as well as a 10mm socket for the oil pan bolts:





Grab your oil pan sandwich adapter and fitting that it came with also:



Now, to continue with the oil pan, grab the silicone sealant:



And start applying the liquid gasket all around the oil pan, make sure the bead's a good enough size so it'll cover alot of surface area once the pan is mated with the engine again:





You should have well over 80% of the sealant still left over after the oil pan, put it aside somewhere cool since you'll be using it again later on in the install:



Now, apply the oil pan back it's proper location under the engine and use two screws (the smaller ones; one on each side) to hold in place for you:





Now, if you get confused on which screws that go in where, here's some good help for you.. the oil pan only has two size screws that go around it, the long ones, and the short ones:



Now, there should be FIVE of the long screws all together. they go in the holes CLOSEST to the transmission, all of the smaller screws fill the rest:



If you wish to see where the 5 long ones go in, here they are:

The two rear closest to the transmission:



The two up front:



And one in the middle right infront of the torque converter's check plate:



For some of the screws, you WILL need a flex tool/fitting or open-end combination rachet for those tight spaces:







Now grab the two 14mm bolts that mate the bottom of the pan to the bottom of the transmission:





Now tighten them:






Now replace the torque converter plate, but make sure you screw in the TOP bolt FIRST so it brings the rest of the plate up aligned to the second bolt:





Congrats, the pan's done! Now you won't be touching it again until it comes time to do your return line:



Now, get the sandwich adapter from earlier and have the rubber side of it FACING UP:



Pass oil above and below that rubber seal with your finger just like you'd do with an oil filter:





Now place the fitting with the inside threaded FACE UP as follows; this is the part that'll screw into your existing oil filter assembly:



Mount the adapter on top of it as shown:





Now, screw in/mount the adapter/fitting into the existing oil filter assembly facing AWAY from the axle so it does not interfere with it as the car is in motion:



Get your adjustable wrench or deep socket:



Tighten away:



Grab your oil filter and pass oil along the rubber gasket just likt you did with the oil sandwich adapter:







Mount/screw in the filter:



I heard that there are some guys who had their braided lines leak very little near the oil filter. From what it seems to me is the shorter half, the laminated half of the oil feed line can be leak free since the laminated part would be able to withstand the amount of oil pressure closest to the filter. If it still leaks, the best thing to do is go with Earl's braided oil line or similar:



Here's the laminated line/shorter line compared to the regular braided line:



Thread the oil feed line (the shorter one) through the engine bay down to the oil filter:



Alright, find this fitting within the kit and make sure it fits both the oil feed line and oil sandwich adapter:







Now, tighten the fitting on the adapter as well as all of the bolts on the oil sandwich adapter that you are not using, I used a 7/16 wrench for this:











Now bring the oil feed line to the fitting and tighten as well:





Now hang the other end of the line somewhere, you'll get back to this later on:











Alright guys, so here's the story...

So, Brad came over. With that in mind; me, Brad, chief and the rest of the neighborhood (literally) came to check out the turbo install which was interesting.. here's a sneak peak of what we did today before I upload the rest of the 317 pictures:

So... here's brad's beautiful car:



We finally got to do some pipe cutting. I was there hiding behind the cardboard shield. Talk about ghetto-rigged protection. lol





Chief helping with the downpipe:



Slapping on that turbo:



Now here's a little something for you... for all of those that've always wanted to see... The downpipe.. many always said it couldn't be done.. many always said "oh no, we can't do it", shops would turn their heads the other way like fools... so the initiative was taken... and we've redone the downpipe.. BEHOLD!!

As you can see, it's clearly in place:



And yet although everyone else has their pipes BELOW the subframe, not this dude! :eek:



Gee-willikers batman! ... yes I know... gotta love our ingeniuity :rolleye2:

So... here's a sneak peak for you guys... Brad, this is the part you missed once you left:





Also.. I loved how people said "you have to remove or maybe cut the reinforcement bar to mount the intercooler".. psssshhhhh, whatever.. Yes people, you CAN fit the intercooler without modding or leaving out the reinforcement bar.. BEHOLD!:





I'll be cutting away more of the intercooler piping so I can shift the intercooler up more to clear the bumper..

Here's a close-up shot of the bar untouched: :eek:





I don't even know what to do with all of the extra piping:



Another teaser pic (intercooler position will be revised):

BLOW OFF VALVE ASSEMBLY

To start off, open up the box of the two assemblies you have, but mainly the blow off valve:





Lay everything out on the floor and take note of what you have and what's missing if there is anything missing:



Now grab these two components and place the screw through the nipple:





Then thread the screw/nipple into the top of the blow off valve:



Get your socket wrench to tighten:





Grab your t-clamp for the blow off valvea nd make sure it's in good condition:



Then put it around the flange of the BOV temporarily:



Store these away somewhere safe, we'll be getting to these later on in the install:





Testing the BOV (installed):

WASTEGATE ASSEMBLY

Alright, for the wastegate, once again, lay out everything infront of you to see if there are any missing components before continuing:

Now, there are two nipples there you'll be touching/grabbing from the box take one of them for now:



You'll find also in the box two silver screws with two brass washers on it as well:



What you want to do is remove the lower washer and put the brass nipple in there, and replace the washer. This way, the nipple is in between two of the washers:



Now screw it into the top of the waste gate and tighten:



Repeat the same for the other nipple/screw and place that on the bottom half of the blow off valve:



Done:



Now, You're going to find two screws with wavy-like washers on them:



Then grab one of the flanges and gaskets that go to it:



and mate the wastegate to that flange, this way you can put it aside without loosing any screws until we get back to it further on in the install:

Continuing on with the DIY...

Before mounting the turbo, we're definitely getting rid of this, it's for one ugly, and two obstructive and gets in the way of a few components:



So, to start off, we'll remove the clips as follows (careful, be aware that coolant will come out of these tubes):



The clip above the thermostat:



and remove the clip that holds the hose to the idle air control valve:



Once you remove the tubing, you'll have this exposed, you'll be covering this with a breather valve:



Note how small f a throttle body your silly j30 motor has. In order to attach the piping with the BOV, we'll have to go to Autozone and get a coupler that comes with a spacer ($7.99):



The spacer:





Apply the spacer and then have the coupler slide over it:





Look what I found:



Grab the wastegate and remove the flange you had it screwed to:



Removed:



Remember that ring you were supposed to put aside earlier in this DIY? Get it and position it as follows before mounting:







Now place the gasket for it:



Then mount:



You want to use a #6 allen key for the screws:









back to the breather/coolant piping; got the assembly removed:



Get the grinder with the cutting disc on it:



Cut only the first section of the larger metal tube off, you'll be using this for your breather filter:





Open up that lovely package for the filter:



Remove the bottom rubber half of it to mount the metal tube you cut earlier into it nicely:





Apply the hose clamp:



Put the filter back on:



We'll be reusing the original rubber tubing off the metal pipe we removed:



Cut it down to a shorter length:



Apply all your clips and you've successfully installed the breather filter:



Now head to autozone, lowes, home depot, advance auto, or any other place you can get rubber tubing and get 5/16" for the hose size (2 feet long):



Measure how long you want the tubing to me, cut it and then clamp down the hose in place:





Congrats! You're done with this step:



Now, remove the cruise control line from the throttle body and toss it aside somewhere, this will get into your way when you're doing the rest of the install. You can go ahead and put it back on later after everything's done:



Pull back on the grooved assembly to loosen/remove the cable:







Now grab these two gaskets and put them to the side, you'll be using them very soon:




Now get the turbo/turbine:



and stand it on it's inlet so you can loosen all of the 10mm bolts holding the compressor housing in place:



Remove the brackets and bolts, then remove the housing carefully:





Do you see this red seal?... DO NOT DAMAGE IT. Put it aside until you're ready to put the turbo back together again:



Mount the turbo on your charge pipe withouth screwing it in and place the housing the way you want it your compressor outlet be going towards your intercooler piping:





Once you are happy with the way it is positioned, gladly assemble the turbine assembly back together the same way you took it off:







***FYI: If you get confused on where to start replacing the brackets back on, the best thing that'll help you is this: If you notice, the gap between the two threaded holes where the compressor outlet is located is larger than all of the other gaps between every other threaded hole on the housing. Therefore, you DO NOT want to try to place a bracket between the holes with that unusual gap but mount a bracket each hole going away from the outlet: ****






Now what you've got your housing the way you like it, time you get the fittings ready. We'll have to remove the plastic fittings that are covering the oil feel and return openings:





Lay out the appropriate gaskets and fittings infront of you:



Wipe both sides down to be nice and clean of oil and dirt:



Remember that sealant we used earlier for your oil pan? We'll be applying a thin bead around the hole, but not to close to it:



Now place the first gasket and then repeat with the sealant on top of that:





Now get the oil feed threaded fitting and apply it:



In your kit, you'll find the appropriate two screws for the fitting along with fasteners/washers:



Tighten and then wipe away all excess sealant:





Repeat the same for the oil return line:











Before you mount the threaded fitting, you MUST make the holes bigger for the bolts:

So get your drill and get crackin':









Tighten:





Now grab the extra fitting indicated from the beginning (for those that get the complete kit, this will be provided for you):





Screw it in and then tighten:







Remove any other protective packaging from the turbo:





Find the four screws that bolt up to the charge pipe where the turbo sits:



Place your gaskets appropriately:



The mount the turbo assembly to the charge pipe:

EMANAGE PREPERATION

Here we are, boring rainy afternoon, can't go outside, so might as well work nice and dry inside until the rain stops... the ligthening here in florida's no joke at all!

Anyway, to start off, since you guys are smart enough to figure out a way to move the circuit board from the e-manage's casing then there's no need for me to post pics of you doing that. It's a simple 10 screws, two on the bottom holding the board down and 4 on each side of the case:

This part of the DIY applies to both the E-manage blue and ultimate. As for the V-manage, i'm still researching for that as well.

So, when you remove your board, look at the dials, normally they're all set to "0" as the default value before applying the unit to any setup:



Now, what you want to do is find your finest set of tools, usually, they're cheap, you can get them at either walmart or any other store for $1 or less:





Also, I've noticed that the settings for the Honda Accord V6 and the Acura TL and CL are slightly different. So unlike my DIY for the j32 ECU where the dials are 7 - 8 - D, your dials will be 7 - 8 - C. This way, you won't be popping any fuses when trying to start the car.

To turn the first dial to 7:



Turn the second dial to 8:



Then turn the dial to C:



Double check to make sure all of your dials are in the right order:



Then look to right of the board for the group of 4 jumpers, you'll be changing their positions to what you see below:



Look to the left for the 3 jumpers to the left, they're all together. Change them to the positions as depicted below:



Once you do that, double check everything; then slide the board back into place inside of the casing, screw in the bottom two screws first and then re-install the side plates/covers:



Done!



Remember, once you plug in the harness to the ECU and connect the e-manage unit, the car WILL NOT START. You must connect the unit to the PC via USB A to Searial (DB9) -> Serial (DB9) to USB A again. If you don't have that, you can make the clone USB interface cable using the Nokia DKU-5 Data Cable ($3.99 on ebay) with the end of a USB A cord (.99 cents on ebay). I'll repost the DIY for producing that close cable later on this evening.

If you have the E-manage Ultimate, you'll need a USB A to B cable... basically a printer cable.

Alright guys.. did some major revisions since this afternoon...

Here's the intercooler before, hanging low and piping long:



I redid the piping as well as remounted the intercooler to sit higher, clears everything up front:





Since the 3" intake coupler with the spacer kept popping off of the throttle body, had to replace it with the 2.5" to 3" reducer coupling. Now it's constant boost

Here's some pics from the camera so far before the camera died again:





That intercooler's so hard to see:









The headers get so hot, they actually turn blue:





Vaccuum connections for the BOV, wastegate, and boost gauge (white):



The lovely dipstick:



Battery Install:

The first test drive:

OK, I'm done... Unlocked now

very nice write up! worthy or stickyness!