http://www.redline9.com/forum/ Fri, 12 Mar 2010 09:51:50 -0600 MyBB http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5267.html Thu, 11 Mar 2010 14:44:02 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5267.html http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5266.html Tue, 09 Mar 2010 12:38:17 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5266.html




]]>




]]> http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5265.html Tue, 09 Mar 2010 11:26:07 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5265.html http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5264.html Tue, 09 Mar 2010 00:24:29 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5264.html
Ball joint failure can be pretty serious. The lower ball joint in particular is the load bearing joint on the front of a civic. When the wheel hits a bump, it pulls up on the lower ball joint, which pulls up on your lower control arm and shock/spring. Needless to say, it's a huge safety concern to have any bad ball joints.

Luckily, I was able to do this in my friend's clean, wel lit, and most importantly HEATED airplane hangar. Lucky again for me, he also had a lift that was just recently installed. He wasn't home, so he told me to go over and get started. The other monkeys showed up at a different time to weld in a roll cage on another friend's car....but mostly monkey around like we always do in that place.

The facility:



Your first step should be to get the car either up on a lift safely, or to get it up on jack stands. Remove the wheels and remove the 32mm axle nut. It's tight...so....don't be a puss cake.

Start then by removing the spindle thusly:

First, remove the brake caliper, the bracket, and unbolt the line from the spindle. Remove the rotor if you can.

Disconnect the lower ball joint next. It's a 17mm nut. Remove the cotter pin (easier said than done) and then remove the nut.



Once the nut is out, you'll want to strike the LCA in this area with a hammer. This will vibrate the ball joint out of it's hole. If this doesn't work with a reasonable amount of force and time, you'll need a ball joint seperator. Be careful not to hit the ball joint if you're re-using it. DO NOT use a pickle fork type tool on any ball joint you plan to keep unless you want to replace the boots. Using a pickle fork will destroy the boot.

Smack smack:


Then you want to remove the 17mm nut that holds the tie rod end to the spindle (again, remove the cotter pin first). Strike the knuckle in this area to disconnect the tie rod. This one should come out real easy.



Now the axle comes out easy. Kinda lift the spindle out and up a little bit. PUSH (never never never pull) on the axle splines or hit it with a MALLET (a hammer is not a mallet) till it comes out of the hub. Put it down on the LCA carefully. DON'T PULL ON IT!! No pics of this...it takes 2 hands to do. Also, grease the axle splines lightly with something like brake or clutch grease. This will make sure they're not rusted stuck the next time you want them off.

here's the axle laying on the LCA:



Then you'll want to remove the upper ball joint. There's a few things you need to remember for this one. The spindle and rotor assembly are pretty F'ing heavy. I've seen this fall and break fingers and toes.

After removing the cotter pin, you're gonna want to loosen the 17mm nut a few threads but NOT remove it!

Now smack the spindle with a hammer and it will drop...but the nut is there to catch it. No broken fingers, no broken toes, no damaged parts or floors. Everyone's happy.



Now you can hold it with one hand and loosen the nut with the other. Don't drop it on your foot. Or you'll for a week.


Now the spindle is on the ground.



Pick it up. Put it in a vise if you got one. If not..put it on a sturdy work space.

You can't use the cup and clamp method to remove the lower ball joint on this spindle because there's no room for the cup to go. You have to either use a press or use an air hammer. We had an air hammer. DONT hit the spindle or the ball joint bore with the air hammer. Just remove the ball joint boots and hit the ball joints themselves. Remember, we're replacing these.

Arrows point to the results:



Putting the new ball joints in is cake. BUT..you do have to remove the rotor so you can bend back the brake shield plate to fit the ball joint press into the area. The problem is that Honda rotors are held in by those damn set screws. You can remove them with an impact screwdriver like I did...or you can drill them out and get new ones as I've done before. Or leave them out as I've also done before.

Then you line up the ball joint and lightly push it in by hand. Go ahead and spray a tiny bit of lube on them.


Finally, use a cup and clamp type tool (ball joint press) to press them in the rest of the way. Make sure they're fully seated against the spindle.


Done! To this point, the whole thing took about 25 mins or so. It might take a bit longer if it's the first time for you. Don't rush. Quality before quantity.

Now just repeat for the other side and installation is the direct opposite of removal. Now the car's safe again and no more annoying squeaks or clunks!

**A few important tips:

-This might be a good time to make some suspension adjustments if you need to and if you have coilovers. The coilovers are nice and exposed. I decided to lower the car slightly. I might do a bit more tomorrow, actually.

-I got my genuine HONDA parts from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com. For something like this, I'd recommend using either an OEM part or better. The cheap replacements really shouldn't be used for something this critical. My OEM joints lasted almost 150k miles...and they were only around $35 a side to replace. It's a no brainer. Find some place else to cheap out...like a shift knob or something.

-Use new cotter pins to replace your old ones. Another good idea would be to use stainless hitch pins from a hardware store. They don't rust and they're super easy to remove...unlike those pesky cotter pins.]]>
Ball joint failure can be pretty serious. The lower ball joint in particular is the load bearing joint on the front of a civic. When the wheel hits a bump, it pulls up on the lower ball joint, which pulls up on your lower control arm and shock/spring. Needless to say, it's a huge safety concern to have any bad ball joints.

Luckily, I was able to do this in my friend's clean, wel lit, and most importantly HEATED airplane hangar. Lucky again for me, he also had a lift that was just recently installed. He wasn't home, so he told me to go over and get started. The other monkeys showed up at a different time to weld in a roll cage on another friend's car....but mostly monkey around like we always do in that place.

The facility:



Your first step should be to get the car either up on a lift safely, or to get it up on jack stands. Remove the wheels and remove the 32mm axle nut. It's tight...so....don't be a puss cake.

Start then by removing the spindle thusly:

First, remove the brake caliper, the bracket, and unbolt the line from the spindle. Remove the rotor if you can.

Disconnect the lower ball joint next. It's a 17mm nut. Remove the cotter pin (easier said than done) and then remove the nut.



Once the nut is out, you'll want to strike the LCA in this area with a hammer. This will vibrate the ball joint out of it's hole. If this doesn't work with a reasonable amount of force and time, you'll need a ball joint seperator. Be careful not to hit the ball joint if you're re-using it. DO NOT use a pickle fork type tool on any ball joint you plan to keep unless you want to replace the boots. Using a pickle fork will destroy the boot.

Smack smack:


Then you want to remove the 17mm nut that holds the tie rod end to the spindle (again, remove the cotter pin first). Strike the knuckle in this area to disconnect the tie rod. This one should come out real easy.



Now the axle comes out easy. Kinda lift the spindle out and up a little bit. PUSH (never never never pull) on the axle splines or hit it with a MALLET (a hammer is not a mallet) till it comes out of the hub. Put it down on the LCA carefully. DON'T PULL ON IT!! No pics of this...it takes 2 hands to do. Also, grease the axle splines lightly with something like brake or clutch grease. This will make sure they're not rusted stuck the next time you want them off.

here's the axle laying on the LCA:



Then you'll want to remove the upper ball joint. There's a few things you need to remember for this one. The spindle and rotor assembly are pretty F'ing heavy. I've seen this fall and break fingers and toes.

After removing the cotter pin, you're gonna want to loosen the 17mm nut a few threads but NOT remove it!

Now smack the spindle with a hammer and it will drop...but the nut is there to catch it. No broken fingers, no broken toes, no damaged parts or floors. Everyone's happy.



Now you can hold it with one hand and loosen the nut with the other. Don't drop it on your foot. Or you'll for a week.


Now the spindle is on the ground.



Pick it up. Put it in a vise if you got one. If not..put it on a sturdy work space.

You can't use the cup and clamp method to remove the lower ball joint on this spindle because there's no room for the cup to go. You have to either use a press or use an air hammer. We had an air hammer. DONT hit the spindle or the ball joint bore with the air hammer. Just remove the ball joint boots and hit the ball joints themselves. Remember, we're replacing these.

Arrows point to the results:



Putting the new ball joints in is cake. BUT..you do have to remove the rotor so you can bend back the brake shield plate to fit the ball joint press into the area. The problem is that Honda rotors are held in by those damn set screws. You can remove them with an impact screwdriver like I did...or you can drill them out and get new ones as I've done before. Or leave them out as I've also done before.

Then you line up the ball joint and lightly push it in by hand. Go ahead and spray a tiny bit of lube on them.


Finally, use a cup and clamp type tool (ball joint press) to press them in the rest of the way. Make sure they're fully seated against the spindle.


Done! To this point, the whole thing took about 25 mins or so. It might take a bit longer if it's the first time for you. Don't rush. Quality before quantity.

Now just repeat for the other side and installation is the direct opposite of removal. Now the car's safe again and no more annoying squeaks or clunks!

**A few important tips:

-This might be a good time to make some suspension adjustments if you need to and if you have coilovers. The coilovers are nice and exposed. I decided to lower the car slightly. I might do a bit more tomorrow, actually.

-I got my genuine HONDA parts from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com. For something like this, I'd recommend using either an OEM part or better. The cheap replacements really shouldn't be used for something this critical. My OEM joints lasted almost 150k miles...and they were only around $35 a side to replace. It's a no brainer. Find some place else to cheap out...like a shift knob or something.

-Use new cotter pins to replace your old ones. Another good idea would be to use stainless hitch pins from a hardware store. They don't rust and they're super easy to remove...unlike those pesky cotter pins.]]> http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5263.html Mon, 08 Mar 2010 16:27:29 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5263.html










Aloha, AL]]>










Aloha, AL]]> http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5262.html Mon, 08 Mar 2010 09:09:30 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5262.html
My friends has a 2006 civic Si and Im not really sure whats wrong, how to fix, or etc. Any help would be awesome...

She bought the car about a week ago, and it was running fine. Took a few seconds to turn over but that was it.

2 days ago she said she heard a ackward noice coming from her "clutch" and she said the clutch felt stiffer and hard to push down.

Yesterday she said the clutch would barley go down and the car wouldnt start at all. (makes sense concidering the clutch must be in to start the car lol)

So I went to look at it with some friends last night, and when I got in the car, the clutch was very very stiff so I figured maybe there was air in the clutch line or no fluid, so I pumped it and it started to turn over, and eventually after tons of pumpiing it turned over...

WELLLL....as soon as the car came on, it made loud ass noice, all kinds of knocks, whines, grinds and shit, so we turned it off quickly. We popped the hood and saw some smoke, I followed the smoke and it went to what looks like some sort of linkage. It was on the right hand side, about halfway to the front, and little lower then the block.

Any Ideas, advice, etc...?

EDIT: Also..We tried to push start it for shits and giggles, and while moving it wont go into ANY gear. When the cars not in motion, it "shifts" through the gears fine.

Thanks!]]>
My friends has a 2006 civic Si and Im not really sure whats wrong, how to fix, or etc. Any help would be awesome...

She bought the car about a week ago, and it was running fine. Took a few seconds to turn over but that was it.

2 days ago she said she heard a ackward noice coming from her "clutch" and she said the clutch felt stiffer and hard to push down.

Yesterday she said the clutch would barley go down and the car wouldnt start at all. (makes sense concidering the clutch must be in to start the car lol)

So I went to look at it with some friends last night, and when I got in the car, the clutch was very very stiff so I figured maybe there was air in the clutch line or no fluid, so I pumped it and it started to turn over, and eventually after tons of pumpiing it turned over...

WELLLL....as soon as the car came on, it made loud ass noice, all kinds of knocks, whines, grinds and shit, so we turned it off quickly. We popped the hood and saw some smoke, I followed the smoke and it went to what looks like some sort of linkage. It was on the right hand side, about halfway to the front, and little lower then the block.

Any Ideas, advice, etc...?

EDIT: Also..We tried to push start it for shits and giggles, and while moving it wont go into ANY gear. When the cars not in motion, it "shifts" through the gears fine.

Thanks!]]> http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5261.html Sun, 07 Mar 2010 19:58:22 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5261.html


Any tips/suggestions for me?

You think it is going to be a bitch to replace?]]>


Any tips/suggestions for me?

You think it is going to be a bitch to replace?]]> http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5260.html Fri, 05 Mar 2010 17:56:09 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5260.html
Whats up guys?? My Lude is in the Speed shop awaiting getting the motor installed!! Just had machined...The head is getting all new Springs,seals...the works

Just saw her today! Had to get a couple shots of her and post her up here.....much more to follow soon]]>
Whats up guys?? My Lude is in the Speed shop awaiting getting the motor installed!! Just had machined...The head is getting all new Springs,seals...the works

Just saw her today! Had to get a couple shots of her and post her up here.....much more to follow soon]]> http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5259.html Thu, 04 Mar 2010 21:56:51 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5259.html
NO SHIPPING. Sorry guys.

EMAIL: KungFooMasterDon@gmail.com

PRICE:$45.00

Willing to TRADE:
-Strut Bar (good condition)
-Offer me something.
-Just hit me up and Ill think about it.

Comes With:

-2 packages of grease.
-2 black RTA bushings.
-Instruction's paper.

PICS:




]]>
NO SHIPPING. Sorry guys.

EMAIL: KungFooMasterDon@gmail.com

PRICE:$45.00

Willing to TRADE:
-Strut Bar (good condition)
-Offer me something.
-Just hit me up and Ill think about it.

Comes With:

-2 packages of grease.
-2 black RTA bushings.
-Instruction's paper.

PICS:




]]> http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5258.html Thu, 04 Mar 2010 14:41:10 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5258.html http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=17...f7ddda1923
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=15...164a111e57]]> http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=17...f7ddda1923
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=15...164a111e57]]> http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5256.html Wed, 03 Mar 2010 02:35:56 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5256.html
anyone have any tips on minor mods? I'm thinking wheels and intake for now.. but some nice Mugen parts later!

pics to come.

oh yeah, if you followed my other threads and you're wondering, I didn't sell my del sol or AE86...still got em both!]]>
anyone have any tips on minor mods? I'm thinking wheels and intake for now.. but some nice Mugen parts later!

pics to come.

oh yeah, if you followed my other threads and you're wondering, I didn't sell my del sol or AE86...still got em both!]]> http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5255.html Tue, 02 Mar 2010 11:15:54 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5255.html
So what's your job/major/profession, whatever?

I'm kind of thinking about going back to the community college and majoring in Pre-Veterinary since I love animals.]]>
So what's your job/major/profession, whatever?

I'm kind of thinking about going back to the community college and majoring in Pre-Veterinary since I love animals.]]> http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5254.html Tue, 02 Mar 2010 08:54:57 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5254.html


Apparently you have the same b-day as my brother!]]>


Apparently you have the same b-day as my brother!]]> http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5253.html Mon, 01 Mar 2010 20:59:05 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5253.html
Have 1 pair of 5K 2005+ RSX highbeams

1 pair 6-LED blue parking lights

1 pair 7-LED multicolor parking lights

and all of these



Post what car you have and what lights you want.

These fit most cars including RSX, 3.5RL, 2nd Gen TL and more.]]>
Have 1 pair of 5K 2005+ RSX highbeams

1 pair 6-LED blue parking lights

1 pair 7-LED multicolor parking lights

and all of these



Post what car you have and what lights you want.

These fit most cars including RSX, 3.5RL, 2nd Gen TL and more.]]> http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5252.html Mon, 01 Mar 2010 20:58:30 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5252.html http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5251.html Mon, 01 Mar 2010 01:00:02 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5251.html btw if youre FB friends with me its all on my page.

KB at Stage D


One more and I'm being a showoff
]]> btw if youre FB friends with me its all on my page.

KB at Stage D


One more and I'm being a showoff
]]> http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5250.html Sun, 28 Feb 2010 19:08:13 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5250.html
Sorry its my Camera Phone











]]>
Sorry its my Camera Phone











]]> http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5249.html Sun, 28 Feb 2010 11:40:50 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5249.html
New starter, 6mo old battery, clutch interlock switch bypassed (soldered wires together, not twisted...).

Jumpered the starter solenoid straight from the positive lead on the starter itself and it cranked the engine. This was about 2pm yesterday.

Last night about 9:15pm I went out and it fired right up. Went to Whataburger, admittedly drunk, and the car started up like nothing ever happened.

I'm thinking starter relay. I'm reasonably certain it's not the ignition switch.

Pulled up the schematic, and the only three things it could be are the starter relay, clutch interlock switch, and the ignition switch. I've ruled out the interlock switch. I'm going to go test the relay right quick...

Any insight on anything I might have missed would be wonderfully awesome and greatly appreciated.]]>
New starter, 6mo old battery, clutch interlock switch bypassed (soldered wires together, not twisted...).

Jumpered the starter solenoid straight from the positive lead on the starter itself and it cranked the engine. This was about 2pm yesterday.

Last night about 9:15pm I went out and it fired right up. Went to Whataburger, admittedly drunk, and the car started up like nothing ever happened.

I'm thinking starter relay. I'm reasonably certain it's not the ignition switch.

Pulled up the schematic, and the only three things it could be are the starter relay, clutch interlock switch, and the ignition switch. I've ruled out the interlock switch. I'm going to go test the relay right quick...

Any insight on anything I might have missed would be wonderfully awesome and greatly appreciated.]]> http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5248.html Sat, 27 Feb 2010 22:51:10 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5248.html ]]> ]]> http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5247.html Sat, 27 Feb 2010 19:06:27 -0600 http://www.redline9.com/forum/thread-5247.html Two 37820-P2E-A92
Non-Vtec Automatic
96-00 2dr
98-00 4dr
One 37820-P2P-A12
D16Y8 Vtec Manual
99-00 2dr/4dr
Make me an offer on the ECU's.]]> Two 37820-P2E-A92
Non-Vtec Automatic
96-00 2dr
98-00 4dr
One 37820-P2P-A12
D16Y8 Vtec Manual
99-00 2dr/4dr
Make me an offer on the ECU's.]]>