Honda and Acura Forum - All Forums

Mommas CiviC Dyno run...

Sat, 20 Mar 2010 17:58:33 -0500

The Dyno, she will be back to the shop this week I might just get another!

Our Ride home after 7 months, notice when he hits third with boost how he leaves me behind going 80 like...I'm standing still!

Some pics of dyno graphs! PROOF!! lol

Thank you Kris for the help!! If it is not playing for y'all please let me know :]

It Finally came in

Sat, 20 Mar 2010 08:34:36 -0500

Brown Man came today, an left me this.
Too Bad it didn't come with the Hardware, (backorder)
Dont' ask me to explain why the hardware wasn't in the box

Just Click on the link to read my Thoughts an Feelings on the Situation

http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry18361998

Test fit pics w/out Hardware

HELP!!!! tranny fluid problem

Sat, 20 Mar 2010 08:10:47 -0500

ok, so my wife's sol has a gsr tranny. I have changed the transmission fluid before (not on this car). I took out the drain plug and let the fluid drain out. When I tried to take the fill plug out, it completely stripped the head. I went to lowes and bought one of those wrenches to get off stripped bolts but there is not enough space to work. Is there another hole I can use to fill it?

Motor Mounts

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 12:00:17 -0500

I noticed this morning that we getting on the gas, i heard a thud. From reading these forums, and from my previous Passat, engine mounts are needed. The question that I have is on the 3.2 CL Type S, which mounts are needed and their locations. I have seen that there is one between the firewall and the engine and between the radiator and the engine. Is that all, in addition, should I replace the transmission mounts as well.

Thanks.

FINALLY!

Wed, 17 Mar 2010 22:15:48 -0500

well got the motor in and running fine, it has a slite bog or hessitation but im hoping thats a fuel filter like last time.

i bought a b18a1 motor gsr trans and linkage for 300 dollars
used my trans cause 5 was ot of the one i bought,
it supposedly has 120k on it and ported and polished head.
but it runs alittle better than the other ls my opinion but got everything together and cleaned up. so im happy now

Going to St Louis...

Wed, 17 Mar 2010 15:56:53 -0500

Hey everyone

im taking a trip to St Louis next weekend and i need to know if there is anything specifically that i should/ shouldn't do?

help a brother out

Del Sol Ish Out.

Wed, 17 Mar 2010 11:21:24 -0500

Crazy twin turbo Legend with Skyline Body Kit

Tue, 16 Mar 2010 23:49:00 -0500

http://www.redline9.com/honda-acura/twin...ra-legend/

Check that out!

Motorweek Honda Prelude Test

Tue, 16 Mar 2010 23:38:28 -0500

Thought you guys might enjoy this:

http://www.redline9.com/honda-acura/mw-1...road-test/

1990 si 4ws

Mon, 15 Mar 2010 18:51:06 -0500

have a 1990 honda prelude si that i am looking to sell. it has a JDM B20 engine. it was swapped about four years ago. it has 275,000 miles on the body and 75,000 miles on the engine. it is red. it was a working moonroof. it has no cd player or radio. the pop up lights are in good condition and work properly. it needs minor work. it has something wrong with a wheel barring in the front. for pictures email me and i will sent them to you. $2000 obo
will ship..

Cody Izzo, let's talk K series!

Mon, 15 Mar 2010 17:34:05 -0500

First I need you to understand that this is gonna involve a lot of my personal opinion. I have strong feelings about what is safe to DD, an I like to lean to the safe side...so off we go.

A RSX-S has a high compression K series. For many brands this means no boost but Honda guys have been spitting in the face of reason for decades now. From most of what I have seen, read and done, I feel that anything in the 400whp range is fairly safe on a stock engine. Many have gone higher without totally destroying the motor but breakage does start to become more common at this point. Also a clutch/flywheel combo is needed once you get the boost flowing. A fully built K engine can easily pull 500-550whp and still be DD able, depending on what you consider DD able.

A fully built NA K24 frank (K24 with a K20 head), on the other hand, made for pump gas is going to cap out around 300WHP. You can use other tricks like water/meth injection kits and/or nitrous to push it more but this takes more planning and consideration than most anything you could build for it to be reliable. It's doable but I would urge you to start with just the NA and work to the water/meth and nitrous later.

Ask as many questions as you like and I'm sure me or someone else can get you a decent enough answer. This is just a teaser to get your brain moving on the questions.

PSCC march autoX

Mon, 15 Mar 2010 08:26:43 -0500

My best time was 49.590. the track is 0.47mi. the video is my 51+ sec run, not my best. And! i woulda got a first-place trophy but was in wrong class. i was in sport-compact. I shoulda been in womans-open, if i had been, i woulda won, because the woman in a vette who did win only got a 52. something!-oh-well. Ill be sure im in the right class next time! I want my trophy, I worked hard all day to get out of the 50's+, lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnI0mhZ4v...r_embedded

some others. my friend Albert drives the zo6. he got 45s i think-

http://www.coachellavalleycarscenes.com/...=83&t=3327

BFGoodrich g-Force Sport Tires?

Sun, 14 Mar 2010 20:46:55 -0500

http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/specs/g-f.../2964.html
Anyone ever tried these? The guy with the Rsx that I'm gonna buy says they're great, but I wanna get another persons opinion. The aftermarket rims that he's including has these on them, but I'm probably gonna sell those. I'll put the stock rims with bald tires on the first day I get it, then buy new tires. Just wondering what kind of tires I should get.

Have you tried them? Love them? Hate them?

FS: Honda/Acura oil filters

Sun, 14 Mar 2010 20:11:02 -0500

bought a case of honda/acura oil filters from ebay and used some of them to do oil changes on my tl-s/ cl-s and my tl-p. sold the tl-p and now about to sell the tl-s. so i dont need all the oil filters. 30 in a case used selling 20 filters.
so 5 filters for $25 shipped (lower 48) not looking into selling them separately bc it wouldnt be worth it imo.

part number. 15400-PLM-A02
i know it works on the 2nd gen tl/cl and 3rd gen tls. most new hondas/acuras but not the legends or s2k's. so check to make sure that this will fit ur car

pm me or email me for a faster response trajca@yahoo.com

Jessica Barton

Fri, 12 Mar 2010 13:43:33 -0600

Equals Sex...

and her owning a supra doesnt hurt either...

That is all.

(google that )

New German Guy with "wettnes behind ears"

Fri, 12 Mar 2010 11:03:13 -0600

Hi,
i´m Pascal, 26 years old and i´m comming from Germany. This is my Intro Thread. You got questions, ask me ;-)

http://forum.mazda-community.de/thread.p...adid=11996

my new whip

Thu, 11 Mar 2010 14:44:02 -0600

[attachment=295]my fa5. use to have the ep3. mugen window visors. sidemarkers. fd2 shift knob, boot, and the collar. HID's. dumped and debadged and i took spoiler off. alot more to come. hopefully.

JDM KB1 and KB2 love

Tue, 09 Mar 2010 12:38:17 -0600

I just got this in the mail today its brand new from honda clio.

91 teg press kit

Tue, 09 Mar 2010 11:26:07 -0600

i have a 91 teg press kit for sale $35 shipped gets it.

Installing civic front lower ball joints

Tue, 09 Mar 2010 00:24:29 -0600

My front lower ball joints were giving me the clunks and squeaks. After making tons of "ball joint" jokes, I decided it was time to fix this issue.

Ball joint failure can be pretty serious. The lower ball joint in particular is the load bearing joint on the front of a civic. When the wheel hits a bump, it pulls up on the lower ball joint, which pulls up on your lower control arm and shock/spring. Needless to say, it's a huge safety concern to have any bad ball joints.

Luckily, I was able to do this in my friend's clean, wel lit, and most importantly HEATED airplane hangar. Lucky again for me, he also had a lift that was just recently installed. He wasn't home, so he told me to go over and get started. The other monkeys showed up at a different time to weld in a roll cage on another friend's car....but mostly monkey around like we always do in that place.

The facility:

Your first step should be to get the car either up on a lift safely, or to get it up on jack stands. Remove the wheels and remove the 32mm axle nut. It's tight...so....don't be a puss cake.

Start then by removing the spindle thusly:

First, remove the brake caliper, the bracket, and unbolt the line from the spindle. Remove the rotor if you can.

Disconnect the lower ball joint next. It's a 17mm nut. Remove the cotter pin (easier said than done) and then remove the nut.

Once the nut is out, you'll want to strike the LCA in this area with a hammer. This will vibrate the ball joint out of it's hole. If this doesn't work with a reasonable amount of force and time, you'll need a ball joint seperator. Be careful not to hit the ball joint if you're re-using it. DO NOT use a pickle fork type tool on any ball joint you plan to keep unless you want to replace the boots. Using a pickle fork will destroy the boot.

Smack smack:

Then you want to remove the 17mm nut that holds the tie rod end to the spindle (again, remove the cotter pin first). Strike the knuckle in this area to disconnect the tie rod. This one should come out real easy.

Now the axle comes out easy. Kinda lift the spindle out and up a little bit. PUSH (never never never pull) on the axle splines or hit it with a MALLET (a hammer is not a mallet) till it comes out of the hub. Put it down on the LCA carefully. DON'T PULL ON IT!! No pics of this...it takes 2 hands to do. Also, grease the axle splines lightly with something like brake or clutch grease. This will make sure they're not rusted stuck the next time you want them off.

here's the axle laying on the LCA:

Then you'll want to remove the upper ball joint. There's a few things you need to remember for this one. The spindle and rotor assembly are pretty F'ing heavy. I've seen this fall and break fingers and toes.

After removing the cotter pin, you're gonna want to loosen the 17mm nut a few threads but NOT remove it!

Now smack the spindle with a hammer and it will drop...but the nut is there to catch it. No broken fingers, no broken toes, no damaged parts or floors. Everyone's happy.

Now you can hold it with one hand and loosen the nut with the other. Don't drop it on your foot. Or you'll for a week.

Now the spindle is on the ground.

Pick it up. Put it in a vise if you got one. If not..put it on a sturdy work space.

You can't use the cup and clamp method to remove the lower ball joint on this spindle because there's no room for the cup to go. You have to either use a press or use an air hammer. We had an air hammer. DONT hit the spindle or the ball joint bore with the air hammer. Just remove the ball joint boots and hit the ball joints themselves. Remember, we're replacing these.

Arrows point to the results:

Putting the new ball joints in is cake. BUT..you do have to remove the rotor so you can bend back the brake shield plate to fit the ball joint press into the area. The problem is that Honda rotors are held in by those damn set screws. You can remove them with an impact screwdriver like I did...or you can drill them out and get new ones as I've done before. Or leave them out as I've also done before.

Then you line up the ball joint and lightly push it in by hand. Go ahead and spray a tiny bit of lube on them.

Finally, use a cup and clamp type tool (ball joint press) to press them in the rest of the way. Make sure they're fully seated against the spindle.

Done! To this point, the whole thing took about 25 mins or so. It might take a bit longer if it's the first time for you. Don't rush. Quality before quantity.

Now just repeat for the other side and installation is the direct opposite of removal. Now the car's safe again and no more annoying squeaks or clunks!

**A few important tips:

-This might be a good time to make some suspension adjustments if you need to and if you have coilovers. The coilovers are nice and exposed. I decided to lower the car slightly. I might do a bit more tomorrow, actually.

-I got my genuine HONDA parts from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com. For something like this, I'd recommend using either an OEM part or better. The cheap replacements really shouldn't be used for something this critical. My OEM joints lasted almost 150k miles...and they were only around $35 a side to replace. It's a no brainer. Find some place else to cheap out...like a shift knob or something.

-Use new cotter pins to replace your old ones. Another good idea would be to use stainless hitch pins from a hardware store. They don't rust and they're super easy to remove...unlike those pesky cotter pins.