i just bought a used apexi vafc2 and installed it. anyone in here use this product? if so, i need help on tweaking with it. the only thing i messed with is the vtec. lowered it to 4800, but now, my car doesnt pull as hard in the higher end. im thinking of switching it back to like 5500 or so. i would prefer on tuning it myself, but im sure i wont know much of a difference. i dont have the cash to dyno tune it. let me know if you have a similar set up.

96 ek w/ 00 gsr, comptech 4-2-1 headers, aem short ram intake, apexi world sport exhaust. exedy stage one clutch, fidanze 7.5 lbs flywheel, b16 tranny. planning to run my blox intake manifold. any one knows how to install the manifold or have a diagram of where the vacuums go? thats the only problem i have with the manifold.

my suggestion is to put the vtec engage point BACK to the stock setting. honda put there specifically. you dont have nearly enough mods to support an engagement point thats set significantly shorter than stock. and if you are still thinking about lowering it, dont just guess the best point. you HAVE to do it durring a dyno tune. its the only time you can be sure of car response in corilation to the changing of points. lowering the vtec engage point also prematurely weres down everything envolved when vtec kicks in during driving.
- i can understand not having the money to dyno the car, but its really your best bet if you dont exactly have experience with fine tuning.


----also, this needs to be in the tunning section. MOVED

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Save up some money and get your ride tuned.

JDMxDB8 Wrote:Save up some money and get your ride tuned.

word
a tune is a hell of a lot cheaper than a new engine
you don't know nearly enough about your engine to do this yourself
its money well, and i mean damn well, spent

I've got one, and mine is black. I hate the wheel dial, and prefer the 1st version with actual buttons. With that said, I cannot stress enough how much you NEED a tune. Whether it be a street tune or dyno tune you need it. Hopefully none of the air or fuel levels have been changed and are flat. You run the risk of running too rich or lean at different RPM's when you tweak it without knowing what you're doing. I have mine engage at 45k. My original street tune was set to engage at 41k. I'm thinking of putting it at 5k soon though but we'll see if there's a significant diff to do so.

GO GET TUNED!

Yeah dude get that shit tuned. I have a little experience with them installing them and setting them up, but I wouldn't mess with anything. Have a pro do it. And be happy, at least yours works!!! Mine was faulty and I just got fed up with it and tossed it lol.

_interlude_ Wrote:my suggestion is to put the vtec engage point BACK to the stock setting. honda put there specifically. you dont have nearly enough mods to support an engagement point thats set significantly shorter than stock. and if you are still thinking about lowering it, dont just guess the best point. you HAVE to do it durring a dyno tune. its the only time you can be sure of car response in corilation to the changing of points. lowering the vtec engage point also prematurely weres down everything envolved when vtec kicks in during driving.
- i can understand not having the money to dyno the car, but its really your best bet if you dont exactly have experience with fine tuning.


----also, this needs to be in the tunning section. MOVED

+1

I have a vafc2 my recommendation is not to mess with it if you don't know what your doing because you can really mess up your car. Have someone hook it up to a wideband and street tune it or hit the dyno. You don't want to be guessing when it comes to your airfuel.

What is this VAFC you all speak of?

http://www.team-integra.net/sections/art...cleID=1134

209ek9hatch Wrote:i just bought a used apexi vafc2 and installed it. anyone in here use this product? if so, i need help on tweaking with it. the only thing i messed with is the vtec. lowered it to 4800, but now, my car doesnt pull as hard in the higher end. im thinking of switching it back to like 5500 or so. i would prefer on tuning it myself, but im sure i wont know much of a difference. i dont have the cash to dyno tune it. let me know if you have a similar set up.

96 ek w/ 00 gsr, comptech 4-2-1 headers, aem short ram intake, apexi world sport exhaust. exedy stage one clutch, fidanze 7.5 lbs flywheel, b16 tranny. planning to run my blox intake manifold. any one knows how to install the manifold or have a diagram of where the vacuums go? thats the only problem i have with the manifold.

You actually raised VTEC engagement if you have a stock P72 GSR ECU.

The stock GSR ECU will engage VTEC at around 4500RPM. This is a fact. Don't try to fight it.

Moving VTEC around is not tuning. You have to tune the fuel delivery for the VTEC engagement point. So your top end being different is just a placebo effect. Your top end is the same. You just moved VTEC up about 300 RPM. You didn't do anything.

If you set VTEC at 5500 RPM, you will need to adjust the fuel curve. The ECU will start adding fuel for VTEC at the stock 4500RPM.

~5500 RPM is when the butterflies open up. That is the change in sound you hear. So that's probably why you thought VTEC was at 5500RPM. It's not. On a GSR, it's hard to actually hear VTEC especially if you have a quiet exhaust.

The VAFC2 looks cool...but is not really money well spent if you want to tune it. There is much more effective and cheap tuning media for your car.

Dyno tuning it is really the only way you're going to get good power out of it. You have to know what you're doing with the VAFC. It's NOT an easy tool to use. Read the manual. Scratch your head. Then take it somewhere that knows how to work with the VAFC2.

The other question pertains to the addition of the blox manifold. The Vacuum stuff is very easy. The instructions should have come with the manifold. I installed a SKUNK2 manifold on my GSR. It was easy. You eliminate the butterflies by just getting rid of the canister and vacuum lines. There wasn't a CEL when I unplugged the butterfly connector either.

You get a T connector and some extra (large sized) vacuum hose for your EVAP and PCV lines to go into one since your car is OBD2.

I don't remember all the painful details....but it should be in the package with your manifold and again, it's very easy.

B serious Wrote:The VAFC2 looks cool...but is not really money well spent if you want to tune it. There is much more effective and cheap tuning media for your car.

This is the truth!

using a map sensor hack device such as an AFC (vafc, safc, neo) the likes... negatively impacts ignition timing...

reason why is the map sensor is used for both fuel and ignition tables for the ECU. but an AFC can only control fuel (or should i say hack) since it actually effects both because it changes map sensor voltage...

anyhow with an afc you cant independently control both fuel and ignition...

basically... when you richen the mixture you end up retarding the timing. and when you lean out the mixture you end up advancing the timing.

This is mine, I had to have it dyno'd as messing with it only made my civic not run. Otherwise it has worked well and the civic gained 39hp with the dyno tuning and other mods. I paid 200$ for Vafc and 150$ to dyno well spent!

good stuff guys! Saving this thread!

thanks a lot guys. i took it off becuase it wasnt runnng rite even when it was at stock. runs a lot better with the stock. when i have the money to tune ill hook up the wires again and get it tuned. also, i bought the manifold used so it doesnt come with instructions. need to go online to get the instructions. anyone knows where i can get the instructions at?

Even tho my old engine was nearly stock, I still had this hooked up as it came with the car when I bought it. I think there is a way to reset everything to stock settings and still had this hooked up so I can look at the graph and TP opening and crap like that. In the end, tho, I would get rid of it.

If you want stock, you just don't mess with the settings. Setting all the fuel correction to 0 and setting VTEC back to 4500 (GSR) would be the stock tune. No need to remove it. You can still use it as a monitor for TPS, MAP, etc. since you allready have it.

Whatever, though.