ok so i am in need of some help regarding my buddies 89 lude.

1st. what the hell is this (see pic below)? i have been told a "heat riser" by a truck guy, but i dont think that is right. any thoughts guys?






2nd. what is the specific name for this (see pic below)? i know it is a external part of the distributer but i am not sure as to what it is exactly. it looks stock so i figure it isnt some msd coil or anything.




thanks for any help you guys.

1. It's the heat riser. It's a carb thing, used the exhaust gases to vaporize the A/F mixture. Had a little butterfly valve that would control how much exhaust would go to the intake manifold.

2. It's the OEM ignition coil.

ok, i heard the part in the 1st pic is part of the egr system and that you can eliminate that system. is that true? if so does anyone know how to do that?

so its an external coil? hmm. is there anyway to change the distributer to have an internal coil?

bump for help...

not sure on the dizzy what ones will interchange. im sure you can put a internal coil one on. that pipe is for the EGR feed, it does rob some power but it is used to cool combustion temps to lower NOX. the easist thing to do is to unplugg the vacume line on the valve, but watch for preignition.

does anyone know of an internal coil distributer that will work on a b20a5?

i have been reading that there is a block off plate that can be made or purchased cheaply that you can use to elimnate the system. has anyine ever heard of this?






i hate asking what seem like such stupid questions to me but i have never worked on a car with these two systems before. so thatnks for all the help

Check out pencil coils too, might be worth the time and effort to getting it running on them vs a distro cap with coil in it. Also consider just simply relocating the coil. You can have the clean look and the OEM reliability, place the coil under something or whatever.

As for the heat riser, car's before the heat riser idea worked just fine so why wouldn't this one?

(10-04-2009 10:47 PM)rileyrat Wrote:  Check out pencil coils too, might be worth the time and effort to getting it running on them vs a distro cap with coil in it. Also consider just simply relocating the coil. You can have the clean look and the OEM reliability, place the coil under something or whatever.

As for the heat riser, car's before the heat riser idea worked just fine so why wouldn't this one?

ok, is there a way to get a longer external coil plug wire?

i know it will work without it, but i have heard that removing it can make a cel pop up everytime the car is on. i had read that people had used a block off plate after they removed it to make the cel go away. i was wanting to know for sure if that was whats needed.


and thanks for all the help riley

For starters, I don't mind researching stuff I'm a touch shaky on. I enjoy helping so it's been no problem.

Now, with the wire to the distributor cap, take the wire to several auto parts stores and look for something slightly longer with similar looking connections. Shouldn't be hard, it's a pretty straight forward set-up. Make sure you do this first, no need buying stuff and cutting stuff until you know you can do it.

It's easy to extend the other wires yourself. I was into electric RC cars for a long time, soldering was a skill of necessity. If you or your friend want to give it a shot, here is what I suggest. Go to some place that carries hobby grade RC (I suggest a small shop if there is one close to you, they need the business and are great people). Pick up a quality soldering iron (60 bucks max, don't need a digital one) with a fine tip. Also grab a little bit of silver solder, some cheap wire and some heat shrink. Practice fanning the wire, joining them and then soldering them. After you get that decently clean looking, practice applying the heat shrink, it can be harder than you think sometimes. Once one of you feels comfortable with it, splice in extra wire.

There is only one reason I mention this route. Becoming handy with a soldering iron is an amazing skill. Splicing wires sucks; you will have a skill used in car audio, wire repair without the normal fire hazard and might even some day lead you to doing wire tucks. It's a skill I'm glad I have, most people look at my solder work and realize that big ball of crap holding two overheated wires together isn't worth the silver content of the solder. If you don't want to invest in the skill, find a longer coil to distributor wire then have a professional do the other wires.

As for the heat riser, you are on the right track. Sounds like you have worked it out so run with it.

thanks, i will have to get better at my soldering skills, jeremy (ak-49-cb7) usually does all my electrical work.

i will look into getting a longer external coil wire.

do you have any links to those pencil coils mentioned in this thread? how would they be any different then the oem distributer? advantages?

The two primary advantages that I can see to pencil coil set-ups are they clean up the engine bay and they provide amazing power for spark. As best I can tell, converting to this system would be at least 850-1,000 dollars.

http://www.bisimoto.com/ They are running them on the shop car or one of the worker's/owner's car. If you would like to know hard facts I suggest talking to them. Most shops are willing to give advice and information to aide you in your decision. Let them know what motor you are working on and see if it would be compatible with what you are doing.

ouch, 1k for pencil coils... he isnt going to go for that.

i will have to check into the internal coil distributer that will work with his b20a5.