What u need from the dealer:
Intake manifold spacer, part number 17108-PGK-A00
Intake manifold gasket, part number 17105-P8E-A01 (or reuse ur old one if u have the p2r thermo spacer(
9 extedned bolts, part number 95701-08105-08

What u need to do the job
Ratchet
8 mm socket
10 mm socket
12mm socket
Screw drivers (+)(-)
Pliers
Dremel, cut off wheel
Safety glasses
mask or face shield
a rag or two
spacers (i used nuts)

1. take out these 4 bolts (10mm)


2. take off these 3 hoses and the one sensor


3. take out the bolt (10mm) and the cable


4. take off the intake (cl-s6 intake)


5.take off 3 sensors, two screws, hose, and the cables


6. take off the throttle body coolant hoses (a good time to do the bypass mod, search for it)


7. take off the 8 bolts and 2 nuts (10mm)


8. take out the 7 bolts and 2 nuts (12mm)


9. should look like this (thermo spacer on)


10. height comparison


11. take out the two studs with vise grips


12. put spacer on


13. put gasket on


14. put bolts in, do it by hand, leave the first few bolts loose so u can move the intake manifold around a bit.


15. tighten all bolts. think it was like 18 ft lbs. i did it by feel and its all good (been doing this a long time)

16. how it should look like


17. now, the imrc cable hooks on here, pull it out of the hook


18. attach the cable and bolt in the bolt (10mm)


19. ur gonna need to put the wires that come out form this sensor. all u need is about half an inch, no harm done


20. hook up the other 3 hoses and place clamps in place


21. hook up the two sensor and the coolant lines (not sure if u need to extend them)


22.hook up the sensor, hose, cables and screw in the two screws that hold the cables in place


23. bolt down top cover (10mm bolts and nuts)


24. put intake back on


CUTTING THE HOOD
1. safety first, use a cut off wheel if u have the oem hood


2. i cut the brace but still needed more room


3. what i had to cut out



4. unbolt the bottom bolt and loosed the top bolt. put in two nuts on the on the bottom between the hood and hinge. hand tighten bottom bolt and take off top bolt. place one nut on the top screw. tighten it down, and do the same to the other side


end results




u get about a finger gap toward teh back.

i plan to take a piece of CF and cover the sides so it looks like a cowl hood.

That's pretty bad ass, dude! And a hell of a spacer for that IM... Did you dyno before installing the IM spacer? If so, I'd be interested in a before/after comparison.

no dyno before. my engines not running right do do some bent valves do i dont want to throw the number off. but i feel more power. breaks the tires loose in 1st gear at any speed, never did that before, also has way more pick up at higher rpms. love it.

RBC on steroids lol looks good man

(10-26-2009 03:35 AM)Rajca Wrote:  no dyno before. my engines not running right do do some bent valves do i dont want to throw the number off. but i feel more power. breaks the tires loose in 1st gear at any speed, never did that before, also has way more pick up at higher rpms. love it.

Didn't you have your brother take it out to a hub dyno a while back? It was either you or someone else...

It was me. Horrible dyno, no tq numbers or afr numbers. Guy didn't do what my bro told him. He thinks he knows my car bettere than me.

Don't you just love that...

Hope you get that other J rebuilt soon. I want to see some numbers!

need money for a clutch and 105k service then the other engine is going in.

great thread! very well described!

Moved to the Engine DIY Forum

Edited the title too

cool. thx

I left a "copy" of it in the CL forum as well

(10-26-2009 06:33 PM)6MTUA5 Wrote:  I left a "copy" of it in the CL forum as well

pimp decision!

thx for that too

i was looking into putting the mdx intake manifold funnel, we have a thin one as the mdx has a thick one. its inside the intake manifold. ill keep u guy updated.

sick job
sick pics
sick jobs
And yes numbers!!!!
However butt dyno is always good.

heres some more info,

outside temp. 65deg.
runner temp. 168deg
thermo spacer installed
spacer temp. 96deg
intake plenums temp. 83deg
intake top cover temp. 90deg

it actually felt cold. hr drive home, 80mph on highway, and about 15min in stop and go traffic. never felt like that. ill try to drive my tl somehow (zip tie the bumper on so it doesnt fly off) and measure the temps. im a believer of the termo spacer and spacer, along with lifting the hood to keep engine cool.

and tb temp was 72deg

The thermospacers might not help a whole lot. It's only 4mm of plastic afterall. But that (what looks like) 2" spacer definitele helps a whole lot. Not only in temperatures, but in allowing the air to accellerate as much as possible before entering the cylinder.

but the termo spacer does keep the heat down. temps before and after the spacer show. the hood popped up also lets warm air escape. the mdx spacer is 1 3/4" - 1 5/8" thick

(10-28-2009 10:03 PM)ThatOneDude Wrote:  The thermospacers might not help a whole lot. It's only 4mm of plastic afterall. But that (what looks like) 2" spacer definitele helps a whole lot. Not only in temperatures, but in allowing the air to accellerate as much as possible before entering the cylinder.

it all adds up i suppose

Yeah it all adds up in the long run, but the 4-5mm spacers aren't a huge deal by themselves, IMO. The 1.750"-1.875" IM spacer is the big deal here. Not only will it cool the intake charge (as you saw in earlier posts), but it will accelerate the air into the cylinders in sort of a ram air fashion. Similar to what carburetor spacers do. Cooler air = more dense air. Since there's more oxygen per unit volume of ambient atmosphere, there's more oxygen for the fuel to catalize with and therefore more power is produced. Since, unfortunately, Rajca's brother took the car to get dyno'd on a shitty hub dyno by a shitty dyno operator, we don't really have a baseline to compare the power changes, but I'm confident that there is a power gain when romped on, and an efficiency gain when cruising cross country.