So I decided to bite the bullet and tackle the IM gasket.

Original 14 year old gasket was leaking and so I got up off my ass and done did it. It wasn't easy, and it wasn't quick.

Write up:

Car is a 1994 Integra LS 5SPD
Tools:
-3/8 drive ratchet
-Various 3/8 drive extentions
-3/8 drive wobble adapter
-10mm, 12mm, and 17mm 3/8 drive sockets
-#2 Phillips head screwdriver
-Small flathead screwdriver
-Needle nose pliers, short and long
-10mm and 12mm combination wrenches
-3/8 drive torque wrench
-Oil pan/coolant catch pan
-Rags to soak up fuel from the lines and filter
-2-ton floor jack and jack stands
-1 Gallon Honda or other prediluted coolant

-Remove fuel pump fuse (don't know which one because I forgot to do this part...read below for result of this mistake).
-Start the engine and let it run until it dies in order to remove the fuel from the lines (I also forgot to do this...).
-Disconnect battery cables and remove battery just to be certain you don't blow yourself up.
-Remove strut tower bar if applicable.
-Remove intake tubing from the filter and the TB (phillips head screw), and disconnect PCV tubing from valve cover and intake tubing.
-Disconnect the fuel line from the top of the fuel filter (12mm and 17mm bolts).
-Unbolt fuel injector wiring harness from fuel rail (10mm nuts) and disconnect the injector clips with a small flathead screwdriver to push the metal clips off.
-Unbolt fuel pressure regulator from the fuel rail and the rail from the IM (10mm bolts/nuts) (when I went to unbolt the FPR, I had forgotten the procedures above, and it sprayed fuel all over the back of the valve cover and my left arm...I found a cut I didn't know about...).
-Pull injectors and fuel rail out as one unit and place on a clean, dry surface to keep from messing up your injectors (the lower plastic sleeve on my #2 injector cracked when I was pulling it out of the IM...that sucked). Let the FPR set on the frame.
-Obviously by now you have probably come across some vacuum tubes. You hopefully have removed those and marked their location on the IM. Also you need to make sure to remove and mark your electrical connectors.
-Remove the FICV from the top rear of the IM (12mm bolts) and the tube that connects it to the outer part of the TB trumpet, and let it set on the "H" shaped block of aluminum that I don't know the name of...it's on the firewall, you can't miss it.
-Disconnect the electrical connectors on the TB and the small round vacuum thing on the rear drives side of the IM (also don't know the name of that thing...)
-Disconnect the throttle cable and unbolt the cable guide (10mm bolts), with the cable still in it, from the IM and let it set along the drivers side fender.
-There is a brace underneath the TB side of the IM. Unbolt it from the IM (12mm bolts), you can unbolt it from the block, but it helps to support the IM when you pull it off the studs (it's not heavy, but you don't want to bust a nut now do you?).
-The power steering line that runs from the top of the PS pump to the rack on the top side of the engine is held in place by another brace, unbolt that from the IM with (10mm bolt).
-Remove the 1" diameter coolant line (it's in a "U"ish shape that goes into the IM and into the block) on the IM side only and push it aside.
-You might need to pull the 1/2" line right next to it just to be able to fit your hand in to pull the #4 runner nut out, but you will figure that part out on your own.
-Remove (and DO NOT drop) the 6 nuts on the top side of the IM and set them aside (12mm nuts).
-Hopefully you have a jack and stands around, or maybe even a lift if you're lucky. Get it off the ground.
-Become a contortionist...at least in your wrists and hands.
-Remove the remaining 4 nuts from the underside of the IM. They are directly below the four runners (12mm nuts). The #1 runner nut you can reach from the top side with an extension on your 12mm socket, but #2 and #3 can only be gotten from underneath. #4 is a bitch. You will use your entire vocabulary or swear words multiple times in both removing and replacing the #4 runner nut. Remove it in whatever method you can come up with.
-Lift and pull the IM off the studs. There is a tube running from the underside of the IM to the PCV system on the block. I don't know how to remove it seeing as how mine was just hanging there.
-Slide off the old IM gasket and clean the mating surfaces of the head and IM.
-Slide the new gasket on the studs and hold it in place with a VERY SMALL SPOT, not a dab, of Hondabond or equivalent high temperature silicone.
-Replace the 12mm nut under the #4 runner first. You will save yourself a lot of headaches and swearing if you can get this one first. If you drop the nut, it will probably land behind the PCV system on a ledge on the block under the main coolant tube. It's not that hard to pick it out, but you have to pull the IM off again so don't attach anything except the PCV tube coming from the IM, that's not hard to mess with.
-Replace the rest of the 12mm nuts on the IM making sure to not drop any of them. I dropped nuts several times and used my entire vocabulary of swear words SEVERAL times...
-Torque the 12mm nuts to the factory specs *EDIT* 17ftlbs
-Bolt the PS line bracket back to the IM (10mm bolt). You won't be able to bolt the brace under the TB back to the IM if you use the Hondata Heatshield or equivalent 2.5mm IM gasket, but otherwise bolt that back up (12mm bolts).
-Bolt the fuel line back to the filter (12mm and 17mm bolts).
-Clean the fuel injector ports and put the injectors back in their holes while still in the fuel rail and bolt the rail back to the IM (10mm bolts).
-Bolt the FPR back to the fuel rail and plug in the connector and vacuum tube.
-Replace the injector wiring harness (10mm bolts) and clip the connectors onto the injectors.
-Reconnect all remaining vacuum tubes and electrical connectors to the TB and IM.
-Bolt the FICV back to the IM and crank those bolts down pretty good, but don't strip out the holes otherwise you'll be buying a new IM...
-Reconnect the two coolant lines you removed to get to the #4 runner nut.
-Bolt the throttle cable guide back to the IM (10mm bolts) and replace the cable itself onto the trottle butterfly.
-Take the cap off the radiator.
-Replace the battery and cables, and crank her up. It will take a while to get the fuel to the engine, but keep cranking it until it starts.
-Fill up the radiator and let it run. Hold the RPMs pretty high to get the bubbles out of the system. Bubbles in your coolant lines WILL result in a melted engine.
-When the cooland starts to bubble out violently, you will need something to cover your arm if you're holding the throttle butterfly with your hand. I used a thick towel folded over.
-You will also need to fill up the radiator several times. I used a little more than half of a gallon of diluted coolant (Honda coolant is prediluted, if you don't get prediluted, use DISTILLED WATER so as to not corrode the waterjacket with the impurities in tap water).
-Keep doing this until you see no more bubbles coming out of the filler neck.
-Let it set while running to make sure the car doesn't overheat.
-When all is good and right in the world of your radiator, put the cap on.
-Take the car off the stands or lift...duh...
-Drive it around a little to make sure it doesn't overheat while driving or idling in traffic or at a light. Be sure to carry a jug of coolant and some thick leather gloves just in case you didn't get all the air out of the system.

Hope this helps.

This post was last modified: 08-08-2008 07:12 PM by ThatOneDude.

damn. why didnt u take pics?? lol


**additional comment: seriously, the distilled water is a must because the waterjacket is tremendously influential when exposed to outside impurities.

I've seen Chevy water jackets eaten almost through and then a rod thrown through them...not a good situation.

I don't have a camera and my brother was not home for the majority of the process. He did take a few pictures of the empty space where my IM goes, and one of the IM in my hand. The thing weighs next to nothing...I was surprised...even with the TB on it the thing couldnt weigh more than 6lbs.

It's a 4hour job by the book, but it took me 9hours because it was the first time I had ever done anything like this on a Honda engine. That and I kept dropping the #4 runner nut. Injector was a reman and it cost me freaking $100, but it was the only one in the metroplex that I could get last night. Dealership would have cost me $160 and it would have taken 2 days to get it.

twas a good learning experience though right? not really that bad of a job once youve done it atleast once or twice.

#4 nut IS a bitch!!!! Me and my friend did it on my B18C and ALOT of cursing like you said! :thumbsup:

The torque for the IM bolts are 17 lb-ft.

Well it was certainly a learning experience, but I really hope that I never have to do that again while the engine is IN the car. I'm perfectly ok with doing it on an engine stand or a workbench, but I didn't have the time or resources to pull the engine or the head.

I just noticed this is a sticky. Thanks, Interlude.

Damn firewall gets in the way.

Firewall gets in the way? I had no trouble with the firewall with the IM.

Yeah, I vaguely remember..I think it's the firewall, but it was freaking crowded back there.

I had all the trouble in the world ten times over with the nut underneath #4 runner, but that's about it. The A-pipe of the exhaust got in the way a little bit, the PCV system kicked my ass, and the brake master cylinder got in the way a little bit, but those two coolant tubes and the height of the block casting pissed me off so badly...